Tough as Nails: Close-Up on the ProTek Automatic USMC Watches

American watch brand ProTek has built quite a reputation for making watches that are as tough as nails. This makes them the natural choice for first responders, who often face challenging circumstances while doing their jobs and need a timepiece that can meet those challenges with them. ProTek is therefore also an official watch of the U.S. Marine Corps, and it is in that collection that it is now launching four models with an automatic movement.

By opting for a mechanical movement, the ProTek universe further expands into regions that will make them appealing to a broader group of watch enthusiasts. As ProTek didn’t want to make any concessions to how robust their watches are, they opted for a precise and dependable Seiko movement, featuring automatic winding and 24 jewels.

The fact that these new ProTek models are purpose-built and able to take a beating without showing a scratch doesn’t mean that they are blunt instruments. In fact, one couldn’t deny that they even have a sense of elegance within their robust looks. This starts with the carbon composite case, which is cleverly faceted. It not only makes the watch attractive to look at, but it also ensures that it doesn’t snag on clothing. It also encapsulates the screw-down crown, protecting it against any blows.

This attention to detail extends to the unidirectional bezel, where the faceted segments not only enhance the watch’s aesthetics but also make it easy to use. This is a perfect example of form and function working in harmony. The natural texture of the carbon composite adds a unique character to the watch. All four models boast a 30 ATM / 300-meter water resistance and come with a remarkably comfortable strap. ProTek has chosen natural rubber for the strap, not only for its durability but also for the enhanced comfort it provides, especially during extended wear.

Legibility was obviously at the forefront of the design of these new USMC models, but ProTek doesn’t let this get in the way of style. They offer the carbon composite watch with four different dials, and each has its own character. With a black dial, the ProTek is all business, playing with the contrasts of this monochrome theme. Quite different is the version with the red dial. Here its unique pattern becomes more evident, which is reminiscent of an intricately designed lacrimal plate. The versions with a forest-green and khaki-colored dial are more subdued than the red version, offering a pleasant balance between function and good looks. All the versions have a colored segment in the crown that matches the dial, elevating the design even further.

Of course, these watches wouldn’t be a ProTek without the brand’s signature self-powered ProGlo illumination, which is 100X brighter than conventional lume. Another benefit is that it glows continuously for 25 years without the need for an external light source to charge it. They also add something to the design, as the ProGlo illumination is contained in small tubes that ProTek attached not only around the dial as hour markers, but also on the hands, adding even more depth to this part of the watch.

All four automatic models of the USMC collection are fitted with sapphire crystals. Dedicated to delivering the best and most dependable quality possible, ProTek assembles its watches in a clean-room environment. It also tests the water resistance of its watches in both air and water. This sounds obvious, but there are manufacturers that prefer to test only with air pressure because if a watch fails, nothing happens. When testing in water, the liquid will enter the case and do its damage. At ProTek, they start testing the water resistance with air pressure and then test it again with water. To them, the only way to guarantee the water resistance of a timepiece is to test it with water.

The new automatic USMC watches are competitively priced at $695. For that, you get a watch that not only pleases with a mechanical movement but also has thought-through details not commonly associated with sturdy-built field watches. The carbon composite not only gives the watch an interesting texture but also makes it pleasantly light to wear, also allowing this ProTek to live by the brand motto, ‘Rugged at heart.’

This article is from the November / December 2024 print edition of WatchTime Magazine. To subscribe, click here.

To learn more, visit ProTek, here.