Why Baume & Mercier Is Betting on Opposites in 2026
Mechanics and jewelry, side by side
With the innovations showcased at Watches and Wonders 2026 last week, Baume & Mercier is consciously focusing on two poles of its identity: classic Swiss watchmaking on the one hand, and a return to the jewelry watch tradition on the other. At the center is the revised Classima, which is positioned as the entry point into the brand's mechanical world.
The new Classima line includes several variants, including automatic models with a structured “Grain d’Orge” dial as well as quartz versions, which are differentiated by dial colors, indices, and strap options in leather or steel.
Two variants of the new Classima Automatic: with a steel bracelet or blue leather strap— both with a characteristic “Grain d’Orge” dial
Baume & Mercier
The new generation of the Classima Automatic stays true to its clear, minimalist design language, but appears noticeably more modern. The 40-millimeter case is well balanced in its proportions and underscores the ambition as a versatile dress watch for everyday use. Particularly striking is the dial with its so-called "Grain d’Orge" decoration— a fine barleycorn pattern that subtly shifts depending on the light and gives the watch visual depth.
Gold-plated indices and finely crafted hands catch the light and create deliberately restrained accents. Together with the classic leather strap, this results in a watch that moves confidently between business, formal occasions, and everyday wear.
The Classima collection showcases its diversity: different materials, colors, and strap options shape the modern dress watch approach
Baume & Mercier
Mechanics for Beginners: What the Classima Automatic Offers
Inside is an automatic movement, designed for reliability and everyday suitability. Baume & Mercier positions the Classima as a first step into the world of mechanical watches— without complexity, yet with all the essential qualities of classic watchmaking.
View through the sapphire crystal case back: The automatic movement of the Classima underscores the claim as a mechanical introduction to the brand
Baume & Mercier
The automatic elevator mechanics ensure continuous operation through the movement of the wrist, while the design remains aimed at a slim silhouette. The Classima thus represents a form of understatement that is not defined by complications, but rather by proportion, workmanship, and wearing comfort.
Joia by Baume & Mercier: Return to the Jewelry Watch
Parallel to the Classima, Baume & Mercier focuses on its roots in the jewelry watch segment with the Joia collection. The models, with a diameter of 28 millimeters, fluid shapes, and a crown set with agate, are clearly conceived as style-driven accessories.
A quartz caliber with a battery life of approximately five years ensures everyday usability, while variations with leather straps, steel bracelets, or PVD-coated case cover different style directions. A limited edition with a diamond-set bezel additionally references the Maison’s historical jewelry tradition.
The three variants of the Joia collection: fine 28-mm jewelry watches with a leather strap or integrated steel bracelet and clear, feminine design.
Baume & Mercier
Two Worlds, One Strategy
The novelties from Baume & Mercier 2026 may seem contradictory at first glance, but they clearly follow a clear strategy. The Classima Automatic represents an entry into mechanical watchmaking and embodies classic values such as restraint, precision, and everyday usability.
The Joia collection, in contrast, expands the portfolio with an emotional, design-oriented dimension that is deeply rooted in the brand's history. Here, it's less about technology and more about expression, style, and personal significance.
Together, both lines demonstrate how broadly Baume & Mercier interprets its identity: as a Maison that masters both classic watchmaking and jewelry design— and purposefully develops both further.
In terms of price, the Joia collection is positioned between approximately $1,500 and 4,800, depending on the version, while the Classima Automatic is in the classic entry-level segment of mechanical watches at about $2,200 to $ 2,500. All timepieces are water-resistant up to 50 meters.
Baume & Mercier is entering a new chapter itself: Richemont is offloading the brand to the Damiani Group. After 195 years, the Geneva-based watchmaker moves out of the conglomerate structure and into the hands of its long-time Italian distributor. The family-run Damiani Group already controls a portfolio of jewelry houses— including Damiani, Salvini, Bliss, and Calderoni— alongside Murano glassmaker Venini and the multi-brand retail network Rocca. With this acquisition, it adds a fully owned Swiss watch manufacture to the mix. Whether new ownership can restore the brand’s relevance remains to be seen. The current collection is still a product of the Richemont era - any tangible shift will likely only surface toward the end of the year.
To learn more, visit Baume & Mercier, here.
