When Time Gets Regulated: 6 Regulator Watches That Love to Be Different
Nothing regular about them
Regulator watches, sometimes also spelled régulateur, are a special breed. They stand apart because none of the hands share the same axis, with hours, minutes, and seconds each given their own scale. This layout allows the time to be read with maximum precision, which is precisely where the configuration originates.
The ability to read seconds, minutes, and hours individually was highly valued in research laboratories, factories, and railroads, among other places where timing directly influenced outcomes. Regulator clocks were often used as so-called parent clocks, allowing employees to synchronize personal or company-issued pocketwatches to an exact reference time.
While technological advances have largely rendered regulator clocks obsolete, the layout lives on in wristwatches. Though it can take some adjustment to read, the regulator display has earned a loyal following drawn to its unconventional charm. Still a niche within watchmaking, the regulator has nevertheless been embraced by a select group of brands, each interpreting the concept in its own way.
Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema
When Hamilton creates a regulator, it allows itself a sense of play. Drawing on the brand’s long relationship with Hollywood — from Elvis Presley wearing the Ventura in Blue Hawaii (1961) to a futuristic reinterpretation seen in Dune: Part Two — Hamilton looked to film for inspiration.
The layout presents hours and seconds as rotating “reels” reminiscent of vintage cameras, while the minute hand remains centrally mounted. This asymmetrical configuration gives the watch a playful character without tipping into whimsy. Details reinforce the concept, including the Hamilton name rendered as a strip of film on the dial, echoed again on the transparent caseback insert. A grained dial surface adds texture and depth.
The Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema is housed in a 42-mm stainless-steel case and powered by automatic Caliber H-12, based on the ETA 2825-2.
Price: $1,295
Junghans Max Bill Regulator Edition 60
Sixty years ago, Junghans introduced the first watch designed by Max Bill — a collaboration that would grow into one of the brand’s most enduring collections. The Regulator Edition 60 celebrates that legacy with the same clarity and balance that defined the originals.
The regulator layout is nearly perfectly symmetrical, with every element placed with measured precision. Rather than feeling clinical, the design appears harmonious and calm. A subtle orange accent marks “60” at 12 o’clock, echoed by Super-LumiNova-filled hands. The matte white dial contrasts beautifully with the anthracite PVD-coated case, while the light-gray strap features an orange lining that ties the design together.
Inside beats automatic Caliber J800.5. The Max Bill Regulator Edition 60 is limited to 1,060 pieces.
Price: $2,400
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel
Louis Erard has fully embraced the regulator display, producing a wide range of interpretations. The Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel is among the most restrained — at least at first glance.
Three blued steel hands sweep across what appears to be a simple white dial, but closer inspection reveals grand feu enamel. This traditional material suits the regulator’s historical roots, while the modern hand shapes and markings keep the design firmly contemporary. The 39-mm stainless-steel case strikes an ideal balance between vintage proportion and modern wearability.
Power comes from the Sellita SW266-1, offering a 38-hour power reserve. A gray grained calfskin strap completes the understated aesthetic. Limited to 99 pieces.
Price: CHF 4,500
Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear
Chronoswiss can rightly be called the godfather of modern regulator watches, having been the first brand to produce them in series in 1987. Since then, the regulator layout has become central to its identity.
Introduced earlier this year, the Strike Two Golden Gear represents the latest evolution. Its most notable feature is the horizontal alignment of the hand axes — a departure from the more common vertical arrangement. Hand guilloché, contrasting materials, and intricate finishing underscore the watch’s craftsmanship, while the 40-mm case remains comfortably wearable.
Inside is the new Caliber C.6000, developed with La Joux-Perret. Limited to 100 pieces, though Chronoswiss history suggests the design may eventually join the regular collection.
Price: $10,800
Garrick Regulator MKII
At Garrick, British watchmaking traditions are upheld with remarkable dedication. Based in Norfolk, a small team led by David Brailsford and Simon Michlmayr produces watches largely by hand, including many in-house components.
The Regulator MKII exemplifies Garrick’s unconventional approach. Dominated visually by the Trinity free-sprung balance, the subdials for hours and seconds are positioned in unexpected locations. This deliberate quirkiness enhances the watch’s exclusivity and character.
Each Regulator MKII is made to order, with extensive customization options — particularly in dial color and finish — reflecting Garrick’s artisanal production methods.
Price: starting at GBP 9,995
Patek Philippe Ref. 5235/50R
With the Ref. 5235/50R, Patek Philippe presents a refined take on the regulator display. The two-tone ebony black and graphite dial is paired with white transfer-printed scales and white-coated hands for exceptional legibility.
Beyond the regulator layout, Patek integrates its signature annual calendar complication. Day, date, and month windows are carefully spaced to preserve symmetry. The 40.5-mm case is crafted from 18k pink gold, adding warmth and contrast.
Through the sapphire caseback, the micro-rotor movement reveals finely finished bridges, along with advanced components developed by Patek Philippe Advanced Research, including the Silinvar Spiromax balance spring and Pulsomax escapement.
Price: $59,510
This article was originally published in the 2025 Special Design Issue. To subscribe to the print edition of WatchTime Magazine, click here.
