Panerai Expands the Luminor Collection with Retro-Inspired Novelties

For Watches and Wonders 2026, Panerai is adding a slew of new variants to its Luminor collection. We got to see a few of them in person so far. Of course, they maintain the collection’s iconic traits while remixing design elements, as often characterizes the brand’s release strategy. But there’s a concerted retro-focused approach here with the likes of cases specifically referencing the 6152/1 from the 1950s, dramatically domed crystals, and manually wound movements. 

The novelties include a couple of 37mm big boys and a couple 44mm models both with 3-day power reserves. We’ve got some pictures and info on them below, but one model was the highlight for us. That would be the new model  ref. PAM01733 featuring the “Brunito” finish. The technically impressive Luminor 31 Giorni is covered in a dedicated article, here.

Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733

There are really only a handful of finishes for watch cases that serve most of the industry’s needs. Usually the difference comes down to their execution and application within the design. That’s one reason something like Panerai’s unusual “Brunito” finish is so cool. Another reason? Just look at it. But it also fits the Panerai character well, managing to unexpectedly retain a high-end feel while simultaneously communicating a rough tool-watch look.

This is what the new Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 brings. The Brunito treatment isn’t new and has been applied to at least a number of Panerai watches before. Other brands have occasionally done something similar. Here’s a little refresher on what it is and how it’s achieved: Brunito means “burnished” in Italian and it’s achieved by manually brushing away a layer of black PVD coating with “small, controlled variations” to give it that wabi-sabi look.

The effect has a natural feel but is in fact very intentional, mimicking the look of extensively used metal where edges are more worn and surfaces retain a darker finish. Extensively used watches, of course, might not exhibit exactly this type of wear, but that only makes a case for the special technique that achieves it. For this particular model, it contrasts with a gray dial featuring circular brushing that reacts to light in a similar manner as the popular sunburst dial finish. The result is some shininess creating an interesting juxtaposition with the case’s rugged look.

There’s a similar contrast for the caseback view, but here you’ll find a lot of straight brushing. It’s the manually wound Panerai P.5000 movement with no less than eight days of power reserve thanks to two barrels. Available from June this year, the price is $11,300.

Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732

Here you have two new variants with a familiar look but featuring the case architecture inspired by reference 6152/1 from the 1950s. It’s the first time, according to the brand, that this retro look has been adapted to a 44mm case (as opposed to 47mm). The highly domed sapphire crystal is part of that vintage style. The hand-wound P.6000 movement with three days of power is inside the new models. One model, the PAM01731, has a brown dial and a traditional orientation, while the other, the PAM01732, has a blue dial and its crown on the lefthand side of the case, making it a “Destro.” The PAM01731 and PAM01732 are both priced $9,200.

Luminor PAM01735 and Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629

Unfortunately, Panerai didn’t have the Forged Titanium model available when we got to photograph these novelties. We’re looking forward to seeing it but, in the meantime, we did get to snap one of the PAM01735 with its “ivory gradient matte grainy” dial. With a similar look and technique to Damascus steel, the forged titanium case of the PAM01629 is made with two different grades of titanium bonded by heat and pressure to create the case patterns which will differ for each example produced.

These models feature 47mm cases and the Panerai P.3000 movement inside (3-day power reserve). The PAM01735 costs $12,400 while the Forged Titanium PAM01629 is $23,600.00.

Learn more on Panerai's website, here.