The 38mm Omega Speedmaster Is Now More Moonwatch-Like Than Ever

It’s not a Moonwatch, and that’s okay. The smaller version of the Omega Speedmaster is sometimes known as the Speedy Reduced, and new variants introduced today seem aimed at making it Moonwatchier than ever. And, we dare say, with preferences for smaller diameters going strong, the 38mm version of Omega’s iconic chronograph just might hit the spot for the right watch fans.

With the collection introduced in 1988 at 39mm as the Speedmaster Automatic, the Reduced has come in multiple generations with tweaks to size and other design elements — as well as many versions of each that mix up elements like colors and materials. Some of those have followed the monochromatic tool-watch design of the hand-wound 42mm chronograph that astronauts famously wore to the Moon in 1969. Of course, Omega still makes nearly identical watches today as the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, if that’s specifically what you’re after. But this isn’t it.

Looking at current models in what Omega officially calls the Speedmaster 38 collection, there are some major differences in this latest generation. In many cases, however, they seem to return to earlier versions rather than present something entirely novel. Recent models have featured oval subdials, and they now revert to round ones. The bezel inserts had been thinned, and they now match the Moonwatch’s proportions more closely.

Notably, the subdials are larger than on many past versions and closer to the center. This results in a more balanced aesthetic of which we fully approve. It also brings it visually even closer to the Moonwatch, to the point that it might even cause initial confusion for some that aren’t intimately familiar with the original design. Those nerdier Moonwatch fans will immediately notice, even in pictures, that the subdials here cut off the hour indices here rather than sitting inside of them as on the Professional. There's also less dial text for an overall cleaner look.

Another Moonwatch nod: the “Dot Over Ninety” tachymeter bezel. This is a detail vintage collectors once used to distinguish a certain era of production considered desirable, but it has become something like a buzzword and now appears on many newer watches for that reason, including the MoonSwatch. In other words, an effort was clearly made to link the Reduced more closely to the Professional, especially evident in the no-date black-dial model that was one of the two watches we got to see and photograph ahead of the release.

An element that’s unchanged from the existing collection is one you won’t see anyway: the automatic movement hidden behind a stainless-steel caseback. With the same Seahorse medallion found on other Omega watches, that caseback offers another touch of Moonwatch spirit. The movement itself, however, is a major difference, offering automatic winding, first of all. Just as in past generations, it’s the Omega caliber 3330 for references with a date function or 3332 for those without one. It’s based on the Longines L688, which in turn is based on the ETA A08.L01. It features Omega’s Co-Axial escapement, a column wheel for smooth pusher action, and it offers a 52-hour power reserve.

The Speedy Reduced captures some of the mojo associated with the brand and collection, and it can be seen as a Moonwatch alternative offering some distinct advantages. It makes for a solid choice for those and other reasons, as long as you’re clear-eyed about what you’re getting. Most obviously, there’s the size. And it’s hard to imagine anyone nowadays complaining about a solid, handsome, toolish chronograph in a vintage-feeling 38mm case.

On the author’s wrist (6.5in/17cm), it wears much like you’d want a vintage chronograph to, though its thickness does make it feel a little stubby at times. If a Moonwatch is too big, this is a compromise, but a pretty decent one in a lot of ways. We’d encourage you to try a Moonwatch, or even the identically proportioned MoonSwatch, as they wear well even on smaller wrists. Piggybacking on the Moonwatch’s name and story, this is more palatable not only for smaller wrists, but also for those on a tighter budget who appreciate the convenience of automatic winding.

In the end, all the little Moonwatch nods appear to chase a little more enthusiast approval for what seems intended as a coomparatively mass-market product. For enthusiasts, the Speedy Reduced will never be a Moonwatch. It comes from the same company and collection, and that counts for something, but while some will enjoy it as an Omega Speedmaster, others will inevitably see it as simply “not a Moonwatch.” Would we wear it? Why the hell not?

The new range launches with three models in stainless steel and different dial and bezel colors. The black no-date model seen here is one of them, and it’s priced at $6,500. The stainless-steel and Moonshine Gold model we photographed is one of two two-tone references and is priced at $11,700. Two additional models feature diamond-set bezels.

Learn more on Omega's website here.