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Reading time 4 min.

Welcome to the Dark Side: Five Black Watches to Know

Once a bold aesthetic choice, black has become a functional design language. These five standout watches prove how dark palettes can enhance legibility, depth, and modern watchmaking appeal.
© Girard-Perregaux

Some might remember that all-black watches were a trend a while back. I am not talking about just the strap and the dial but also the case, the hands, and the numerals. Legibility was on the back seat, as style took it away. While the die-hard version of this trend soon dwindled, a lighter version took its place. Black is still setting the pace but is now the backdrop for legibility to take center stage. Check out these, very diverse, watches that have all joined the dark side.

ZENITH PILOT AUTOMATIC

© Zenith

In pilots’ watches, legibility has always been key. Zenith delivers on that by crafting the 40-mm case of its Pilot Automatic from black ceramic. A microblasted finish enhances its look as a purposely built watch. The hands and Arabic numerals form a bold contrast with the grooved dial that enhances the character of this Zenith. Being powered by automatic Caliber El Primero 3620, it runs at the high frequency of 36,000 vph (5 Hz) and offers a power reserve of 60 hours. An oversized crown makes setting it a breeze, while a water resistance of 10 ATM / 330 feet, combined with the black rubber strap with Cordura effect, gives the Pilot Automatic a versatile touch.

$9,900

TAG HEUER AQUARACER PROFESSIONAL 200 SOLARGRAPH

© TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer also uses a black palette to ensure great legibility for its Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. Initially, the only dash of color seems to come from the baby blue seconds hand and writing on the dial. This changes in low-light conditions, as then not only the hands and hour markers light up, but also the luminous material embedded in the carbon-fiber insert of the diving bezel. To ensure that the watch is water resistant up to 20 ATM / 660 feet, TAG Heuer opted to craft its 40-mm case from stainless steel and give it a DLC coating, which not only makes it black but also more durable. The black dial doubles as a solar panel, ensuring continuous performance as there is no battery that needs to be changed.

$3,050

GIRARD-PERREGAUX FREE BRIDGE INFINITY EDITION

© Girard-Perregaux

For centuries, onyx has been a highly regarded semi-precious stone that remains mesmerizing with its glossy black appearance. Girard-Perregaux uses it in its Free Bridge Infinity Edition, flanking the visible parts of the movement on the dial side. There, it creates a visual link between the blackened bridge that secures the openworked mainspring barrel and the 44-mm-large stainless-steel case with a black DLC finish. Next to the visible rubies, it is pink gold that adds a dash of color in the hands, hour markers, and the neo-bridge at 6 o’clock. Underneath, a high-tech balance wheel made from silicon ensures that this automatic Girard-Perregaux runs with the utmost precision.

$25,800

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M

© Omega / WatchTime Magazine

With this GMT version of the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M, Omega gives a master class in using color only where it matters. Legibility is key, and the overall design is perfectly balanced. This starts with the 45.5-mm-large case, which is crafted from a single block of ceramic, the same material used for the bezel. Thanks to its different shapes, the four hands are easily kept apart, making sure that you instantly get the information you are looking for. This includes the nicely integrated date function at 3 o’clock, where Omega gave the background of the date disk the same color as the dial. Inside this Omega ticks Master Chronometer Caliber 8906, which can also be admired through the sapphire insert in the caseback. As the name already indicates, this Seamaster Planet Ocean is water resistant up to 600 meters, which is 60 ATM or 2,000 feet.

$12,300

SEIKO PROSPEX SRPK43

© Seiko

For the Prospex SRPK43, Seiko wanted to give the impression that you are looking at your watch through a night-vision scope. Reflection is kept to a minimum as the case and bracelet are donned in black coating, matching the dial and ceramic bezel. At 45 mm, the diameter of this Seiko seems large, but those familiar with this case style know that it wears comfortably, even on smaller wrists. Seiko opted for green Lumibrite Pro for the hands and indexes to further achieve that night-vision scope effect. The day and date windows are magnified with a cyclops, making them even easier to read. Inside the case ticks Caliber 4R36, an automatic movement that supports manual winding and offers a 41-hour power reserve. As a divers’ watch, this Seiko has a more than adequate water resistance of 20 ATM / 660 feet.

$725


This article is from the July / August 2024 print edition of WatchTime Magazine. To subscribe, click here.

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