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Reading time 3 min.

Horology's Rhapsody in Striking Blue: A Spotlight on De Bethune

Within just two decades, De Bethune has become one of the most respected names in high-end watchmaking, blending mechanical mastery with avant-garde design and an unmistakable signature color.
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© De Bethune / WatchTime

In the watch world, some brands are born with centuries of heritage, while others rewrite the rules in just a few decades. De Bethune belongs firmly to the latter category. Founded in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, the independent manufacture has built a reputation for mechanical innovation, artistic daring, and its signature celestial-blue aesthetic. In under twenty years, it has achieved what many maisons take centuries to accomplish — a permanent place among the elite of haute horlogerie.

Origins and Vision

De Bethune was never a project of vanity but a way to create total creative freedom. Zanetta, an art dealer and watch collector, and Flageollet, a fourth-generation watchmaker, merged their complementary worlds of design and technical mastery to produce timepieces unlike any other. Their early collaborations pushed the boundaries of both function and form, drawing inspiration from history while embracing radical modernity.

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© De Bethune

Design and Innovation

From its spherical moonphase indicators to titanium cases heat-treated to a rich, electric blue, De Bethune’s aesthetic innovations are as significant as its mechanical advancements. One prime example is the brand’s moonphase display, with a precision so exact it requires adjustment only once every 122 years.
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© De Bethune

Collaborations and Craftsmanship

De Bethune’s creativity extends into collaborations, such as intricate engravings for its Métiers d’Art pieces, including bespoke interpretations for the Día de Muertos. Each project reflects a blend of technical skill and visual storytelling.
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© De Bethune

Recognition and Legacy

Within a decade of its founding, De Bethune captured the industry’s most prestigious prize — the “Aiguille d’Or” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This cemented its place as one of the leading forces in independent watchmaking, admired by collectors and peers alike. With over thirty calibers created and countless innovations, De Bethune continues to prove that modern watchmaking can honor tradition while venturing boldly into the future.

This article was originally published in the March / April 2024 print issue. To subscribe to WatchTime Magazine, click here.

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