A Classic Goes Full Black: Meet the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

In recent years, watchmaking has been in the midst of a full-fledged color revolution. From vibrant greens and bright blues to salmon, purple, and every gradient in between, dials have become ever more expressive, and collectors have embraced the spectrum. Still, every now and then, all that color can feel like a bit much. That’s when black steps in. Effortless, uncomplicated and timeless, it’s the sartorial equivalent of a perfectly tailored tuxedo, a visual reset in a world of chromatic enthusiasm. There’s a reason Henry Ford famously remarked that customers could have their cars painted in any color they wanted, “so long as it is black.” And when The Rolling Stones sang “Paint It Black,” they captured the same enduring allure: black is never just a fallback, it’s a statement. In watch design, black remains the ultimate classic. It doesn’t demand attention, yet it invariably commands it – and the best part is, it pairs effortlessly with every color. 

The latest example is the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631), a striking reinterpretation of IWC’s iconic chronograph in an all-black execution. The 41mm case is crafted from Ceratanium, the brand’s proprietary high-tech material that combines cutting-edge performance with a distinctive aesthetic. Since its debut in 1998, the Portugieser Chronograph has brought an unmistakable sporty elegance to the Portugieser collection. Recognizable by its vertically arranged subdials and the quarter-second scale printed on the rehaut, it has become one of the manufacture’s most celebrated designs. Now the icon switches to “dark mode”: for the first time, the defining aesthetic is rendered entirely in black.

Ceratanium, developed in-house by IWC, merges the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch resistance comparable to ceramic. The alloy undergoes a complex heat treatment process at high temperatures, resulting in a dark, metallic surface that is integral to the material itself. First introduced in 2019 with the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium, ceratanium now appears for the first time outside the brand’s TOP GUN line.

Limited to 1,500 pieces, the new reference features a case measuring 41mm in diameter and 13.1mm in height. In keeping with the monochromatic concept, the black dial is fitted with black appliqués, including the characteristic Arabic numerals, the pearl-minute track, feuille hands for hours and minutes, and the chronograph seconds scale. The two recessed subdials for the 30-minute counter and small seconds provide subtle contrast against the dial’s surface. A black rubber strap with a square pattern and a ceratanium pin buckle completes the cohesive, stealth-like appearance.

Powering the watch is the IWC-manufactured caliber 69355. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), this mechanical chronograph movement features a classic column-wheel architecture that ensures clearly defined switching sequences and precise tactile feedback when operating the pushers. An automatic bidirectional pawl-winding system builds up a power reserve of 46 hours. Pricing is marked at $14,600, excl. VAT.

To learn more, visit IWC, here.