Mother-of-Pearl in Poetry: Czapek & Cie. Antarctique S Ice Cloud and Promenade Midnight Pearl

Mother-of-pearl, also known as nacre, has captivated collectors and watchmakers for centuries with its iridescent glow and organic depth. In collaboration with dial specialist GT Cadrans, based near Lausanne, Czapek interprets this natural material in two entirely distinct ways: poetically and playfully with the rare nacre-brouillée technique, and technically avant-garde in a patented sandwich construction featuring aventurine glass.

Antarctique S Ice Cloud

The Antarctique S Ice Cloud captures the delicate lightness of cloud veils, transforming it into a breathtaking dial artwork. The base is polished white mother-of-pearl, reduced to just 0.2 millimeters in thickness, which is about the weight of two sheets of paper. Using a fine horsehair brush, the artisan applies lacquer by hand to the back, creating random, cloud-like patterns. A cool bluish hue evokes the atmosphere of an Antarctic sky. The technical challenges are significant: too little lacquer, and the effect fades; too much, and the dial becomes too thick for assembly. After decoration, the dial is baked at over 100°C for several hours, making corrections impossible. At GT Cadrans, only a single specialized artisan masters this rare technique, ensuring each dial is unique.

For those familiar with the independent manufacture based in Geneva and La Chaux-de-Fonds, it is no surprise that Czapek & Cie also excels in mechanical sophistication. Housed in a 38.5mm stainless steel case is the in-house automatic caliber SXH5, featuring a decentralized micro-rotor in 100% recycled 950 platinum. Seven skeletonized bridges, inspired by the historical pocket watches of François Czapek, give the movement depth and architectural harmony. The caliber beats at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), with a variable inertia balance fitted with four finely adjustable gold weights, and a mainspring barrel providing a 60-hour power reserve. Each component is exquisitely finished: hand-beveled interior angles, chamfered edges, straight-grained bridge sides, and sandblasted black bridges elevate the movement into a true haute horlogerie masterpiece.

To learn more, visit Czapek, here.

Promenade Midnight Pearl

Even more complex is the Promenade Midnight Pearl. Its dial is based on a patented sandwich construction combining 0.2 mm thin Tahitian mother-of-pearl with an equally delicate layer of blue aventurine glass. The latter contains metallic particles, producing a sparkling, star-like effect. Together, the layers measure just 0.4 mm in total—thinner than a credit card.

The assembly of these materials is executed with the utmost artisanal precision. Particularly demanding is the creation of the small seconds at 4:30, where a precise groove is cut into the aventurine layer without damaging the mother-of-pearl beneath. The result is a dial of near-cosmic luminosity, reminiscent of a starlit night sky. Encased in a 38 mm stainless steel case, the watch houses the meticulously finished caliber SXH5.1, an evolution of the SXH5 movement with a small seconds at 4:30 and a 60-hour power reserve. 

The Promenade Midnight Pearl is limited to 38 pieces and paired with a nubuck leather strap. The watch is priced at $26,300.

To learn more, visit, Czapek, here.