Porsche Design is bringing back its famous “Military Chronograph” (Ref. 7177) from the 1970s (back then co-developed with Orfina, shown in the picture below on the left) in a limited edition of 250 pieces, available from January 15, 2024.
Instead of a PVD-coated stainless steel case, however, the latest release from Porsche Design is equipped with state-of-the-art materials and components: By using titanium carbide (TiC), the “Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition” is also the first chronograph within the brand’s collection watches that is made from the patented material that is not connected to a specific Porsche sports car.
“This dark, extremely light, hypoallergenic, and highly scratch-resistant material is the result of years of elaborate research. A revolutionary material for the timepieces of the future and a tribute to F. A. Porsche’s legacy to the world of watchmaking.”Porsche Design
The design is an homage to the Military Chronograph from the 1970s, even down to the use of the original font on the three totalizers. The new edition, however, is powered by the Porsche Design WERK 01.240 chronograph caliber with COSC certification and flyback function, enabling quick starting, stopping, and resetting in a single operation.
The movement comes with a frequency of 28,800 bph (4 Hz) and offers a power-reserve of 48 hours when fully wound. While it does show the typical layout of the trusty 7750, the team at Porsche Design partnered with the specialists from Concepto Watch Factory SA in La Chaux-de-Fonds for this proprietary movement. A gray “BUND” leather strap is also used in the new Utility Edition.
While the USAF version for the 79th Fighter Squadron “Tigers” featured the squadron’s tiger head, this one comes with an image of a screaming marmot instead – colloquially called a “Mankei” in Pinzgau, Austria. The “Mankei” on the dial refers to the Mankeiwirt, Ferdi Porsche’s newly opened destination for car enthusiasts that is located on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road near Studio F. A. Porsche in Zell am See, highlighting the collaboration between Porsche Design and F.A.T. International.
The “TiC” logo is placed in the characteristic position between 1 and 2 o’clock on the dial, referencing the use of titanium carbide, and is a nod to the 3H symbol of the Military Chronograph (the “3H” symbol signified the use of the hydrogen isotope tritium). Needless to say, the new edition uses Super-Luminova (blue hue at night).
The watch also features the historic Porsche Design logo on the dial and winding crown, the “Mankei” and the “Chronograph 1 Utility Edition” lettering are laser-engraved on the black-coated case back along with the individual number (XXX/250). The 42.5mm x 15.50mm chronograph comes with a slate-gray strap made of calfskin and quick-change mechanism (an additional white textile strap featuring a badge that bears the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race in Zell am See is included as well, see below).
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition (Ref. WAP0710190RUTL) can be pre-ordered at porsche-design.com and will be available in Porsche Design Stores worldwide and at selected watch retailers from January 15, 2024, at a retail price of $13,000.
Some hands-on photos: