Watches & Wonders 2025: Bremont's New Altitude Watches Conjure Its Legacy Persona

For Watches & Wonders 2025, Bremont announces new models in three collections, but the emphasis is clearly on the Altitude. The aviation line gets a full range including time-only and chronograph models that harken to classic Bremont style, personality and even specific models. More consistent with the brand's recent rebranding, however, is a first for the British watchmaker: a complicated perpetual calendar GMT watch.

Last year at Watches & Wonders, Bremont joined the show for the first time and presented itself as almost an entirely new brand. Under the recently appointed CEO Davide Cerrato, a new logo, design language, concepts and an entirely new collection were introduced. The most consistent and on-brand element of it all? The riotous controversy it caused around the brand.

Bremont focused on branching out in 2024 with updated diving watches (Supermarine) and a new field watch-inspired collection (Terra Nova). There wasn't anything new in the aviation line apart from a name, Altitude. This year in returning to it, perhaps the brand is responding to criticism that it had strayed too far from its roots. Is the implication that "the old Bremont" never actually went away? "This year we’re returning to our heritage and celebrating what makes our brand unique," CEO Cerrato is quoted in the press release.

The Altitude Collection

For 2025, Bremont isn't exactly backpedaling from last year's bombshell, but the new watches in its Altitude collection should feel a bit more familiar to fans of its legacy persona (I guess we can call it that). Though it's expanded into all manner of land/sea/air genres as well as complications, aviation and pilot's watches are at Bremont's core. Even at its rebranding, it signaled that the classic propeller logo would continue to feature on its aviation watches going forward.

On the new Altitude collection, that logo is part of what conveys a sense of relative continuity. But there's more to it. The hero reference of the new collection is an update to the MBII pilot's watch, first introduced in 2009 (as the MBI) and one of the brand's most popular models. The other models seem to expand upon its design language and features. I'm just going to say it: they look pretty damn good.

One notable element is that all the new Altitude watches feature Bremont's distinctive and beloved case design it calls "Trip-Tick" with a component covering the middle case that is often given coloring treatment for a distinctive look. Water-resistant to 100m, each comes in monochromatic black or white dial variants with bracelet and strap options, but the perpetual calendar is a halo piece and features a pale blue dial. Learn more about each below.

Bremont Altitude MB Meteor

The name is new, Altitude MB Meteor, but you're more or less looking at a fresh generation of the old Bremont's MB (Martin Baker) watch. Most notable among the updates is the case's size, decreased by 1mm to 42mm, and its titanium construction. Both should help a largish watch wear easier. It's not only the the width: its thickness (now 12.23) and length (49.3mm) have also been decreased.

The movement is also new for Bremont. Following a wider industry trend, a La Joux-Perret LP-G100 movement with a longer power reserve (68 hours) replaces the Sellita and ETA movements previously used. With some modification such as a custom rotor, the brand renames it "BB14" but is transparent about its origin, and that's appreciated.

Aside from some dial design tweaks, other notable elements of the watch include, according to the brand, engineering improvements to the operation of the 2 o'clock crown and the inner bezel which it controls. It still turns in both directions with satisfying clicks.

Price is $5,300 on a strap (leather or NATO) or $5,700 on a titanium bracelet.

Bremont Altitude 39 Date

If you like the Altitude MB Meteor, "MB" is gone from the name but the Altitude 39 Date presents a take on its design that's even more accessible and day-to-day wearable. In 904L steel, it's smaller at 39mm with a standard 3-o'clock-crown silhouette offering a traditional wearing experience and giving something like IWC vibes to my eyes. It's powered by the same La Joux-Perret LP-G100 as the Meteor.

Viewed head-on, it might look like a pretty straightforward daily wear that might even be able to pull dress duty but, from an angle, you'll see that middle case shroud ("centre barrel") that characterizes the Bremont Trip-Tick case. Unlike the Meteor's cool knurled texture, this one features a brushed finish with black DLC coating, but it'll still contribute to a sporty feel.

Price is $4,250 on a leather strap or $4,550 on a steel bracelet.

Bremont Altitude Chronograph GMT

If you've got traditionally styled pilot's watches, a chronograph fits right in, as does a GMT. And the Bremont Altitude Chronograph GMT cuts a handsome figure mixing a familiar pilot's chronograph style with some cues from the MB Meteor including, again, the Trip-Tick case. Measuring 42mm in 904L steel, it's powered by a chronometer-certified Sellita SW530 a automatic movement forgoing a date display and offering 56 hours of power reserve.

Price is $6,300 on a strap (leather or NATO) or $6,600 on a steel bracelet.

Bremont Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT

And now for something completely different. It's different from the rest of this years collection and from most of what Bremont has previously been known for. That's right, it's a Bremont perpetual calendar. Down-to-earth tool and military watches are what most people would have long associated with the brand, but a "high complication" like a perpetual calendar can be seen to fit with 2024's pivot.

It would seem that CEO Davide Cerrato wants to take Bremont in the direction of brands like IWC which are simultaneously known for military and pilot's watches, on one hand, but also high-end and complicated watchmaking on the other. In 2024, Bremont released its first watch featuring a tourbillon. This year, the perpetual calendar GMT is similarly a halo piece.

The base AMT6900 movement is from Sellita's subsidiary company Atelier Manufacture Technique with its custom-build program, and the complication module is made by Geneva-based Agenhor. It's decorated with a mix of finishes including "curved sunray" on the baseplate and bridges as well as Geneva stripes, snailing and polishing. You can admire it all through the caseback, and around front you'll find a dial in a very nice hue described as "RAF blue" (for Britain's Royal Air Force) which is further echoed on the Trip-Tick "centre barrel."

It might be high-complication watchmaking, but it's still in the aviation-focused Altitude collection and design cues abound to remind you of that. In addition to the "RAF" color, a propeller motif characterizes the running seconds (at 9 o'clock) and the month display (3 o'clock). The four-bladed month propeller indicates the month in the righthand quadrant and one blade is red for the leap year. It's actually pretty clever and intuitive to read. The date display is at 6 o'clock.

At 12 o'clock on the dial, the domed globe motif is, of course, the GMT indication. It's advanced via the button integrated into the crown, and Bremont thus calls the watch a "monopusher" even though the term usually refers to a chronograph with a single button. Measuring 42mm wide, the case and bracelet are, like the Meteor, in Grade 2 titanium.

Price is GBP 33,500 and it's limited to only 50 examples.

To learn more, visit Bremont, here.