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Reading time 4 min.

Moritz Grossmann Presents the Benu Email Römisch Vintage to Celebrate the 16th Anniversary of the Manufacture

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To mark its 16th anniversary, Moritz Grossmann introduces the Enamel Roman Vintage, a limited edition of just eight pieces, featuring a stunning enamel dial that beautifully interprets the brand's historical craftsmanship in a modern light. Powered by an in-house manual-winding caliber, this watch is meticulously finished to the highest standards of Glashütte watchmaking.

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Following in the Footsteps of a Great Glashütte Watchmaker

No conversation about the illustrious history of Glashütte is complete without mentioning Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826–1885). Along with his close friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange, who established fine watchmaking in Glashütte in 1845, Grossmann played a key role in the success of this horological cradle in the German Iron Ore Mountains. Grossmann established his own mechanical workshop, where he crafted precision tools, pocket watches, pendulum clocks, and marine chronometers. He also founded the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, where he taught until his death in 1885.

The revival of the Grossmann name is owed to Christine Hutter, a trained watchmaker who, in 2008, partnered with a group of Swiss investors to relaunch the brand. Under her leadership, Moritz Grossmann has been creating luxurious timepieces that continue to honor the legacy of its founder while interpreting it in the context of modern watchmaking. One of the latest examples is the Enamel Roman Vintage, limited to just eight pieces, with a stunning enamel dial that draws on the brand’s historical tradition. The striking contrast of black, white, and red adds a refined elegance to the watch, highlighting the brand’s traditional craftsmanship.

A Timeless Work of Art

With the resurgence of mechanical watches, enamel dials have also made a comeback, captivating collectors with their exquisite craftsmanship and unique aesthetic. Enamel is made from a blend of glass and additives, which are processed in an intricate series of steps. First, the enamel granules are ground into powder and combined with metal oxides or ceramic pigments to achieve distinctive colors. The powdered enamel is either sprinkled dry onto the dial or applied as a liquid mixture.

After the initial firing at high temperatures, the surface is cooled, dusted with more powder, and fired again. This process of applying, firing, and reapplying continues until a smooth, glossy surface is achieved. The dial is then decorated with numerals or indices. The appeal of the material is not only rooted in its beauty but also in its durability— enamel can last for centuries without losing its brilliance.

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The dial of the Benu Email Römisch Vintage exemplifies this craftsmanship. The deep black base is enhanced by delicate Roman numerals in crisp white, with the red XII standing out. Fine scales, elegant inscriptions, and the historical “M. Grossmann” logo are all crafted from enamel using the pad printing before being fired for extra resilience and depth.

Producing a single dial is an intense process, requiring around 90 steps and several days to complete. Each step demands exceptional precision, as firing can cause enamel to crack, bubble, or chip. Only with great skill and patience can the perfect surface be achieved. The elegant design is further complemented by the railroad minute track, small seconds, and the hand-crafted hands that are signature features of Moritz Grossmann watches.

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A Noble Manufacture Movement with Technical Elegance

Inside the Enamel Roman Vintage is the Caliber 100.1, a highly precise pillar movement with superb finishing and decorations. The characteristic 2/3 plate features a wide horizontal stripe finish and is signed with a hand-engraved signature. The bridge is open at the back, showcasing the unique Grossmann balance, held by a stepped, hand-engraved balance cock with a fine adjustment screw.

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One of the technical highlights of this movement is its innovative hand-setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential sources of error: the ingress of foreign particles during the setting process and the accidental misalignment of the hands when pushing the crown back into place.

The Enamel Roman Vintage is encased in a 41mm white gold case and is paired with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap. The price for this exclusive timepiece is €74,700 or approximately $78,740 when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Moritz Grossmann, here.

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