Parmigiani Fleurier introduced the Tonda GT, a sportier subfamily of its luxurious Tonda line, in 2020, to offer a more “everyday” style of timepiece that still distinctly projected the manufacture’s legendary elegance. This year, the GT series expands with two Tondagraph models — both with new silver-and-black bicolor dials (aka the ever-popular “panda” style) yet each differing substantially from the other in its case material and movement.
Like its predecessor with a monochromatic black dial, the Tondagraph GT Steel Silver Black descends aesthetically from 2017’s Tonda Chronor Anniversaire model, which celebrated the 20th anniversary of the Parmigiani brand and copped that year’s prize for best chronograph watch at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Created with the input of seasoned watch designer Dino Modolo, the GT models adhere to the “golden ratio” principles of brand founder Michel Parmigiani and are distinguished from the original Tonda models by their gently curving lugs, ergonomically sculpted integrated bracelet, a fluted bezel reminiscent of those on Parmigiani’s Toric models, and the “clou triangulaire” guilloché motif on the dials.
The steel watch’s 42-mm case boasts an array of polished and brushed finishes and contains the automatic PF043 caliber, which bundles the rare horological combo of a chronograph and an annual calendar. The dial’s openworked Delta-shaped hands and rhodium-plated indexes are treated with black luminescent coating; its large date appears in a double aperture at 12 o’clock. The running seconds and the calendar month are indicated in a multipurpose subdial at 3 o’clock, while chronograph minutes and hours, are tallied on subdials at 9 and 6 o’clock. In an update from last year’s model, the calendar indications — which, as in all annual calendar watches, require adjustment only once per year, at the end of February — are in high-contrast white rather than orange. Inside the 100-meter water-resistant case, secured by a screw-down crown, the movement is visible behind a sapphire window in the back. Possessing a 45-hour power reserve, it also boasts the array of high-horology finishes characteristic of Parmigiani, including côtes de Genève. In addition to the integrated bracelet, the Tondagraph GT Steel Silver Black is available on a black rubber strap that features the same textured pattern as the dial. On the bracelet, the watch retails for $21,500; on the strap, for $20,400.
Following up last year’s rose-gold-cased Tondagraph GT with a blue dial is the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Silver Black. Like the former timepiece, it is equipped with the recently introduced Caliber PF071, based on the PF361 movement that powered the Chronor Anniversaire and was Parmigiani’s first movement equipped with an integrated chronograph function rather than a modular one. While it does not include an annual calendar, the COSC-certified automatic caliber incorporates a large date display and is noteworthy for several technical elements that maximize its chronographic efficiency. Among these are its use of a column wheel instead of a cam, making for smoother operation; a vertical clutch rather than a horizontal one to increase accuracy by enabling the stopwatch to start without an initial jolt; the use of a cross-bridge instead of a single attachment to better stabilize the balance; and a high frequency of 36,600 vph (5 Hz), which means it can measure intervals up to 1/10 second.
The 18k rose gold case, like its steel sibling, measures 42 mm in diameter and integrates seamlessly into either an ergonomically engineered bracelet, in the same precious metal, or a textured rubber strap. It features the fluted bezel reminiscent of the one on the Toric, the first wristwatch designed by Michel Parmigiani; the “clou triangulaire” guilloché motif on the high-contrast bicolor dial, here in silver with black subdials; and the Delta-shaped, hands, also in gold. Through a clear sapphire caseback, the high-end finishing on Caliber PF071 is on full display: chamfering and polishing done by hand, sandblasted surfaces, a sunray pattern on the 18k gold oscillating weight, and angel-wing-shaped bridges. Every component of the movement, which amasses a power reserve of 65 hours, is made within the walls of Parmigiani’s family of specialized Swiss factories, making it a true manufacture caliber.
The Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Silver Black joins the regular Parmigiani Fleurier collection and is not a limited edition. On the rubber strap, it is priced at $45,300; on the bracelet, $72,500.