Military Greens: 3 New Green-Dialed Watches from Panerai

Panerai, which introduced its first blue-dialed watches earlier this year, continues to expand its palette with the launch of three new models with dark green dials that evoke the brand’s storied history as a provider of timekeeping instruments to military divers in the 1930s and ’40s. Here’s what you need to know about the new watches.

The watches represent three distinct Panerai case types — Radiomir, Radiomir 1940, and Luminor 1950 — and a variety of different functions. The dark green “sandwich” dials are enhanced with contrasting luminous beige hour markers and gilded hands. All the models come mounted on natural brown leather straps with contrasting beige stitching and a stamped “OP” (Officine Panerai) logo. All are equipped with hand-wound mechanical movements produced in-house at the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland.

The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days Titanio (Ref. PAM00735) has a brushed titanium case measuring 45 mm in diameter and sporting a polished, stationary bezel. The case shape, with its conical winding crown, has its roots in a model from 1936. The small seconds are displayed on a subdial at 9 o’clock, and the date, directly across the dial at 3 o’clock, is visible through a round magnifying lens integrated into the sapphire crystal. The movement — visible, as on all three new models, through a clear sapphire caseback — is Panerai’s Caliber P.2002, which stores 192 hours, or eight days, of power reserve in its three series-connected spring barrels. Among the movement’s other attributes is a function that zeroes the seconds hand to enable quick synchronization with a time signal and a device that enables the wearer to move the hour hand in both directions without affecting the motion of the minute hand for easy resetting of the time. The Radiomir 8 Days Titanio is water-resistant to 100 meters and is priced at $12,100.

Slightly larger, at 47 mm in diameter, is the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio (PAM00736), whose historically inspired, polished-finish case is constructed from a single block of AS 316L stainless steel and features integrated lugs. The dial has the large Arabic numerals and linear hour markers characteristic of Panerai, along with a date window at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. Powering the watch is the manufacture Caliber P.3000, with a three-day power reserve and large, brushed-finish bridges, including two bridges with twin supports for the massive 13.2-mm balance wheel. This manual-winding movement also features a quick-adjustment function for the hour hand. The price: $9,200.

Boasting the most complications (and, accordingly, the longest model name) is the Panerai Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Titanio (PAM00737 for short), whose brushed titanium case measures 44 mm in diameter and features, like all Luminor 1950 models, a patented, locking bridge device over the crown. The bezel has a polished finish and the chronograph’s single button for starting, stopping and restarting is placed unconventionally at the 8 o’clock position. All the watch’s functions — including the aforementioned monopusher chronograph; the GMT, or second time zone display with 24-hour indication; small seconds subdial with AM/PM indication at 9 o’clock; and the linear power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock — are controlled by the movement, Caliber P.2004, which boasts a power reserve of eight days. Chronograph minutes are tallied on a subdial at 3 o’clock, and a central, triangle-tipped hand (the only non-gilded hand on the dial) points to the time in a chosen second time zone. Among this in-house movements’s technical and aesthetic attributes are a column wheel and vertical clutch to operate the chronograph function and a device that stops the balance wheel to zero the seconds hand when the crown is pulled. The watch retails for $18,100.

All three new green-dialed Panerai watches will be delivered in green cherry wood boxes with replacement rubber straps, along with tools to replace the straps. They will be available exclusively in Panerai boutiques.