Ulysse Nardin’s journey toward more in-house movement production, a stated goal of UN CEO Patrik Hoffman, continued apace at this year’s Baselworld, when the brand released the new Marine Chronograph Manufacture, its first chronograph watch with an in-house movement.
The watch’s story begins last year, when Ulysse Nardin purchased the rights to Ebel’s Caliber 137, the chronograph movement that has now been renamed Ulysse Nardin Caliber 150 and manufactured exclusively by UN at its workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. The Marine Chronograph Manufacture follows up last year’s major introduction of the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, which contained the brand’s very first in-house movement, COSC-certified chronometer Caliber Un-118.
Ulysse Nardin has outfitted the original Ebel movement with its own silicon escapement, which beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph; even the balance spring, made of silicon, is made in-house. The renamed, refurbished UN-150 movement is composed of 322 parts and carries a power reserve of 48 hours. The movement powers a central hours and minutes display, a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, and the date, in a window at 4:30, along with the chronograph, which has a center-mounted seconds hand, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock.
The case, available in either 18k rose gold or stainless steel, is 43 mm in diameter and has a fluted bezel and screw-locked crown for a water-resistance of 100 meters. There are sapphire crystals with nonreflective treatment in the front and back. The unlimited versions of the new watch have applied Arabic hour numerals.
Ebel’s chronograph movement is not the only acquisition that Ulysse Nardin has made in its quest for increased vertical integration. In 2011, the company also purchased Donze Cadrans, a dial-making firm that specializes in luxurious enamel dials. That expertise is on display in the most exclusive version of the Marine Chronograph Manufacture, which has a grand feu enamel dial with Roman numerals and a railroad-style minute track and is limited to 150 pieces in rose gold. The grand feu enamel technique is increasingly rare and requires very specific skills: Donze Cadrans’ craftsmen apply the enamel in successive layers, between which the dial is fired at a temperature of almost 900°C. The process allows for the intense black of the Roman numerals, minute track, and subdials to emerge from the pure white background. Since it produces the movement and dial entirely within the company, UN describes the Marine Chronograph as “another step toward the Ulysse Nardin company’s end goal: independence.”
These watches are really good. i have the one with black strap and its really an outstanding chronograph watch.
Ulysse Nardin’s effort must be lauded and hope more watch companies follow their example.