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Steel Watches

REVIEW:

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Hands-On with the Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver

About a month ago, after writing on the Citizen Tsuno Chronograph Racer, the publicist I was borrowing the watch from for the article let me know they were the first to have the retail model of the Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver in New York. I’ve written on the watch before after its initial release, but...

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May 19, 2019 by Caleb Anderson

Sponsored: Gerald Charles Introduces Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon

Introducing a new age of technical aestheticism, Gerald Charles debuts its Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon. With a unique design created with the expert oversight of the brand’s creative director, Octavio Garcia, the timepiece is a return to the original Maestro flying tourbillon released in 2005. Taking hints from the brand’s rich history, the new release is...

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Mar 21, 2023 by WatchTime

NEWS:

Swatch Group 2019 Release: Blancpain Revives the Fifty Fathoms Barakuda and Fifty Fathoms Nageurs de Combat

The Swatch Group decided to forgo Baselworld in 2019 and have its 12 exhibiting brands release their latest novelties on their own terms. While we’ve seen a number of releases slowly trickle out over the past six months, it’s all led up to this week for the Swiss conglomerate. WatchTime was one of the select...

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May 17, 2019 by Caleb Anderson

COUNTDOWN TO WTLA:

Showing at WatchTime LA: Chronoswiss Sirius Chronograph Moon Phase

As part of Chronoswiss’ showing at the upcoming WatchTime Los Angeles event on May 3-4, the Swiss brand will be showcasing the new Sirius Chronograph Moon Phase. The watch, a navy dial chronograph with a moon phase and analog date indicator, joins the previous steel and gold white dial options from the independent Lucerne-based watchmaker....

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Apr 24, 2019 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: RGM Model 222-RR

In the United states, where railroads, trains and the people who ran them are so intricately linked to the country’s national history, the locomotive profession and the watches purpose-built for them have long been romanticized. This is a common trend among many other jobs, and the watches associated with them, from the past hundred years...

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Apr 7, 2019 by Caleb Anderson

NEWS:

Romain Gauthier Introduces His First Watch in Stainless Steel

The Prestige HMS was the second watch produced by Romain Gauthier and his eponymous brand. It followed the original Prestige HM and was released in 2010, helping further establish the then-nascent firm’s capabilities before going on to more technically challenging releases such as the Logical One and the Insight Micro-Rotor. Previously rendered in precious metals...

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Feb 13, 2019 by Logan R. Baker

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Certina DS PH200M

Swatch Group-owned Certina is a Swiss watch brand that few American consumers are familiar with, but it is a company that has long specialized in sports watches, and even has an extensive history, both in the American market and among military personnel. Yet, as was the reality for many historic Swiss manufacturers, the Quartz Crisis...

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Jan 27, 2019 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Swiss watch brand Oris is no novice to the “Vintage Eye” series. With previous releases like the ever-popular Diver Sixty-Five; the Big Crown 1917 with its distinctive pocketwatch style; and last year’s ChronOris Date, the century-plus-old Holstein-based watchmaker has long been taking part in the ongoing retro-look watch trend, with models resurrected from its rich...

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Jan 6, 2019 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Doxa SUB 300 Searambler “Silver Lung”

In 2017, the storied Swiss dive watch brand Doxa shocked the market by selling 300 of its SUB 300 Professional “Black Lung” watches only hours after their release. The new watch was a re-issue of a vintage model known as one of today’s most famed and collectible dive watches, the SUB 300 Professional “Aqua Lung.”...

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Nov 11, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Bulova Archive Series Oceanographer “Devil Diver”

Bulova has been gradually entering the “new vintage” trend of horology for the last few years. The company’s newest release, the Oceanographer Devil Diver— which comes in the forms of both a limited-edition, more historically accurate 40-mm orange piece, and of a non-limited, more modernly designed 44-mm model — is its most recent addition to...

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Sep 23, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Longines Heritage Skin Diver

Longines, a watch brand that has long led the field in “neo-vintage” watches, has once again demonstrated its skill in this arena with the new Heritage Skin Diver. The dive watch — which comes on the heels of the critically-acclaimed Legend Diver watch, a 1960s super-compressor-style diver, and last year’s Avigation BigEye, based on a 1930s aviation...

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Sep 9, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Hamilton Intra-matic Auto

Recently, I’ve been reflecting upon some classic watches in the “new vintage” trend that represent really good value for their relative intrigue. My mind was drawn to the Mido Multifort Datometer with its unusual triple calendar, and the Tissot Heritage Antimagnetique with its rejuvenated historical styling,  and to the Timex Marlin which at $200 is...

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Aug 19, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE:

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Tutima Grand Flieger Classic Chronograph

Of the many noteworthy World War II watches, there have been few, if any, designs that have become more recognizable and influential than the original B-Uhr  (Beobachtungs-Uhren, or observation watch) pilots’ watch of the 1940s. Excluding this general style as a whole, still seen in watches from historical companies IWC, Laco, and Stowa, among others, the individual...

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Jun 24, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE:

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Omega Seamaster 1948

The Omega Seamaster is one of the most recognizable dive watches on the market, today. Even before its modern-day placement on James Bond’s wrist in the Daniel Craig era, the timepiece has been one of the most popular models in the diving category in its Professional and 300 iterations since 1957. Yet before its release as...

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Jun 17, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Seiko Prospex Diver 300m Hi-Beat SLA025

For those of you who have been closely following this series, it’s no secret I have a keen affinity for Seiko. A vintage Seiko 5 happened to be my first mechanical watch, the Grand Seiko 62GS was the second piece I covered writing for WatchTime, the Seiko Marinemaster Professional 1000m was one of the first...

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May 20, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Oris ChronOris Date

In 2017, Oris introduced the ChronOris Date, a fascinating piece based on a 1970 stop-seconds chronograph with a similar name. The vintage piece was the very first chronograph produced by the brand all those years ago, with a design that could not have been born in any time but the 1970s. Here we compare the modern watch with its predecessor.

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Apr 29, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Mido Multifort Datometer Limited Edition

In 2018, Mido is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its founding. To commemorate the centennial, it has been revisiting some of its most important models from the brand’s entire history. Chief among them is the Multifort Datometer Limited Edition, which is modeled after a 1939 watch by the same name, released five years after the...

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Apr 15, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Tissot Heritage Antimagnetique 2018

Tissot released the Heritage 1948 Chronograph to critical acclaim at last year's Baselworld, thus it was natural to expect a bold follow-up to be added to the brand's lineup this year. That follow-up turned out to be the Tissot Antimagnetique Heritage 2018, a new hand-wound piece based on the antimagnetic watches that Tissot produced in the 1930s and '40s.

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Apr 1, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Laco Pilot Watch Original Replica Type A

This week, we return to the classic B-Uhr (Beobachtungs-Uhren, or observation watch) pilots' watch design, with this series produced by the historical manufacturer Laco. For conciseness, we’ll be focusing our eye on the brand’s most historically-informed series, called the Replica models, the Type A Replica 45 and Type A Replica 55.

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Mar 18, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

FEATURE

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox

This year at SIHH, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris collection, basing a series of new models on the iconic 1968 Polaris Memovox (picture below via Analog/Shift). This vintage model is arguably the most famous of the brand’s alarm watches, but it came standing on the shoulders of at least four other significant vintage models. The first...

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Mar 11, 2018 by Caleb Anderson

Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph

Since Montblanc’s 1858 collection was first released in 2015, it has served as the host for watches inspired by the erstwhile Minerva marque. Montblanc acquired the Minerva manufacture in 2006 and has done well to use this company’s long design history to enhance its own novel series. This year was no different, with Montblanc expanding...

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Mar 4, 2018 by Caleb Anderson
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