Of the many amazing watches we saw this year at WatchTime New York, it seemed many brands were keen to debut their newest and most impressive dive watches. This year, we saw some amazing new dive watches from Glashütte Original, Blancpain, Maurice Lacroix, Omega, and De Bethune, among many others.
The new Spezialist SeaQ Panorama Date is one of the latest releases from Glashütte Original and is the most modernized edition yet of the SeaQ line. This series is modeled after the vintage Spezimatic Type RP TS 200″, which was also on display at the event— a 1960s-1970s era dive watch developed for sports divers in its time. The new watch is 43.2-mm in steel, water resistant up to 300 meters, and features a robust case complete with crown guards, unidirectional bezel, and a screw-down crown. The model is available with either a sunburst black or sunburst blue dial, which uses large applied Arabic numerals alternating with prominent applied rectangular hour markers. At the 4:30 position is the piece’s namesake panoramic date window, while sweeping over the dial is a large arrow hand for the minutes, sword hand for the hours, and a lollipop-tipped counter for the seconds.
This new model is powered by the automatic Caliber 39-13, which holds a lengthy 100-hour power reserve, beats at a 28,800-vph frequency, and includes a stop-seconds function. Prices range from $11,200 on the rubber strap to $12,400 on the steel bracelet.
This year, Blancpain featured their famed Fifty Fathoms watch, but now in a special rose gold edition with a blue ceramic dial. The watch’s 18k rose gold case measures 45 mm in diameter and features a satin-brushed finish. Water-resistant to 300 meters and 15.4 mm thick, the case is the first made of precious metal to be used in the Fifty Fathoms collection since its launch in 1953. The ratcheting unidirectional divers’ bezel has a scratch-proof domed insert made of sapphire—a distinct difference from the ceramic used in previous Fifty Fathom models.
However, the dial of the watch is ceramic, which is the first use of the material for the face in this series. This dial uses a shimmering cobalt hue for the sunburst-finish center with a more matte blue appearance for the surrounding chapter ring. The dial’s hour markers and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova for easy legibility in low light or deep beneath the waves. And a date window — an indicator first added to the Fifty Fathoms in the 2007 update — occupies the 4:30 position. Powering the watch is Blancpain’s automatic Caliber 1315, a movement capable of an impressive 120-hour power reserve, and on display via the diver’s sapphire case back.
This watch marks the first time the brand is using both rose gold and a blue ceramic dial in the Fifty Fathoms series, and could very well mark a strong transition into more precious materials for the line, depending on its success. Pricing for the model is still unavailable, though based on previous precious metal dive watches by the brand will likely be upwards of $24,000.
Another rose gold dive watch we saw at the event was the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Sedna Gold by Omega. This newest model continued the series’ use of the revitalized design first introduced last year for the line, and was a quick hit among collectors at the event alongside the famous Seamaster Ultra Deep also on display.
The new diver chronograph uses a completely Sedna gold case, and features a laser-ablated black ceramic bezel contrasted with a single white dot of Super-LumiNova at 12 o’clock. Like the other models in this new collection, this watch has a 44-mm diameter and uses a bicompax dial configuration; though this new model stands out by the golden rings around the two sub-dials to match the metal of the case. Another new feature of the watch is the presence of ceramic pushers. This specific model uses the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 9901, which is differentiated only from the more standard Caliber 9900 due to the specialized finish of the rotor and balance bridge in 18k Sedna gold. Pricing for this latest release is currently marked by Omega at $26,000.
One of the most fascinating dive watches on display was the De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu, the first watch in this category by the brand, and a unique concept design sure to turn some heads.
The 44-mm case of the piece is fully made of titanium and offers a water resistance rating of 105 meters. While with a water resistance of 105-meters this isn’t the professional’s dive watch, the new model nonetheless hosts a number of special and uncommon features to the dive watch category sure to push it forward. The lugs use a new design in a medium size with black zirconium inserts referencing the middle side of the case. The piece uses a unidirectional bezel (the first time one has appeared on a De Bethune timepiece), and while the bezel rotates like normal, the numbers are actually applied on the sapphire crystal; De Bethune says that this was chosen to keep the watch thin.
One of the really interesting features on the watch is the application of a mechanical dynamo system that emits a blue-white light around four spots in the bezel. This light is powered completely by the mechanical movement of the watch, and presents a thought-provoking concept that could be imitated by other brands. The new watch features the brand’s 27th in-house produced movement with a five-day power reserve and a manufacture produced balance wheel made of titanium and white gold.
The model on display at the event was the prototype, though the representative at the event noted it was slated to begin shipping the week of October 28, priced at $93,500 and limited to 30 editions.
Maurice Lacroix at WatchTime New York was showcasing the Aikon Venturer collection, their signature dive series. Sized at 43-mm wide by 11.6-mm tall, the watch wears smaller thanks to the integrated appearance of the bracelet and rubber strap. Maurice Lacroix has incorporated an “EasyChange system” for this bracelet, which consists of two bars (labeled with the Maurice Lacroix logo) fitted with protruding prongs that allow the wearer to quickly remove and change straps without additional tools.
The watch is available in two sunburst dial options, in black and blue. The hour markers are indicated with alternating round and rectangular indexes that are filled with luminescent material, as are the baton-style hands. A white date is located at 3 o’clock to add an extra bit of functionality to the watch’s day-to-day usage. Inside the watch is the automatic ML115 movement that uses a workhorse Sellita SW 200-1 as its base, capable of a 38-hour power reserve.
At the event, the brand also showcased their #TIMECODE model—a special limited edition example of the piece complete with reddish accents on its hour markers.
Did you have an opportunity to attend this year’s amazing WatchTime New York, and if so did you see any of these new dive watches? Are there any we missed? Let us know in the comments below!
While it’s nice to see these beautiful watches, they are not available ( financially) to the majority of your audience. Could you not select as you have, your top five, but also write a column about the more affordable watches for the masses. Ones that would appeal to divers and people starting to learn to dive, that don’t earn a squillion dollars a year. I enjoyed your editorial, but know that every watch shown are well beyond my financial reach.
It’s wonderful to see what dive watch less than 1% of the population might purchase. I’m sure the De Bethune, priced at only $93,500, will be a best seller within the dive community. The 99% of the under achievers who have seen this article thank you so much for a helping us decide on what dive watch to purchase. Utterly Ridiculous!!
Not a single one with the most basic feature you would expect from a dive watch – a depth gauge, and all these watches are top $$$. I guess it’s more important to impress the SeaWorld with gold hardware…
Whoever pays $93,000 for a watch is nuts. One Man’s opinion.
As a gentleman with large wrists, each of these being over 43mm is awesome. I imagine most won’t be too excited though, with the newish need of every sports watch ever needing to be 39mm.
The first Fifty Fathoms with sapphire bezel was 2003. I don’t think of it as new. I think of it as their calling card.