WatchTime New York 2022 is less than two days away, with the event poised to be one of the biggest horological happenings of the year. Bringing together over 30 brands from Oct 21 to 23 at Midtown Manhattan’s Gotham Hall, the event lets enthusiasts go hands-on with some of the most important watches of the year while making connections with other guests and watch industry professionals.
Joining the line-up this year is Ferdinand Berthoud, with the brand debuting their latest novelty at the event in the Chronomètre FB 3SPC. The new watch, launched today, follows up on the previous models in the Chronomètre collection via the FB1 and FB2. Whereas these two previous models followed design motifs established by Ferdinand Berthoud himself and his legacy of marine chronometers in the 18th century, the FB3 instead takes its primary influences from Berthoud’s nephew and successor, Louis.
Debuting in two different colorways, the timepiece is available in either an 18k white gold edition or an 18k 5N rose gold variation. On the wrist, the watch measures 42.3mm by 9.43mm, with it featuring an updated case silhouette reminisicent of previous Chronomètre collection models, but ultimately all its own. The design is inclusive of an eye-catching knurled crown signature of the maker, as well as pair of screwed lugs that add to the model’s mechanical aestheticism. A screwed-in viewing window displays the side of the movement in parallel to the crown, the detail working to assist the wearer in fully appreciating the mechanical impressiveness of the timepiece.
On the dial, you come to the most apparent aesthetic reflection of Louis Berthoud’s influence in the watch’s development, with an uncommon, skeletonized configuration on display. For the white gold version, the look features an eggshell-colored peripheral inner bezel ring and sub-dial, both made of sandblasted silver-toned brass. While the 5N rose gold edition takes a darker approach to the design with a black-varnished peripheral inner bezel ring and seconds sub-dial, these also made of sandblasted brass.
On the solid right side of the dial, a power reserve indicator adds to the model’s utility, while at the 6 o’clock a running seconds sub-dial is placed. At the 9 o’clock position, the three main escapement organs— that is, the balance wheel, pallet lever, and escape wheel— are revealed through an open-worked portion of the dial. Designed to be admired, the escapement components alternate between chamfered and polished bevels and matte surfaces created by fine sandblasting. Above it all, a pair of faceted, skeletonized and open-tipped hands sweep over the aesthetic for the hours and minutes. The style of these hands is inspired by a 1785 Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical regulator, with it now belonging to the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier.
Inside the new timepiece is the Ferdinand Berthoud calibre FB-SPC, the mechanism featuring a novel cylindrical balance spring with “hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves.” According to the brand, the manually wound movement is derived from three years of research and development to perfect its fine details, with the chronometer grade movement featuring a power reserve of 72 hours and being hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards. In the rose gold edition, a black-rhodium treatment on the movement highlights its incredible style, while in the white gold model, sandblasted and 2N gilded components make up its visual elements. A glare-proof, exhibition case back highlights these visuals, further allowing the wearer to appreciate the incredible work the watchmaker has placed into the timepiece.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC is available in 18-carat white gold (ref. FB 3SPC.1) and 18-carat 5N rose gold (ref. FB 3SPC.2), with production limited to 25 total piece per year and pricing available upon request.
To learn more, visit Ferdinand Berthoud, here.
And to purchase tickets to WatchTime New York 2022 to see this model and so many others live and in-the-metal, click here.