An In-Depth Look at Czapek’s 2019 Releases

This past March at Baselworld 2019, Czapek & Cie. released a number new watches, and, soon on May 3 and 4, the updated collections will be shown for the first time in the U.S. at WatchTime Los Angeles. In the seven years since the brand made its modern debut, Czapek has steadily expanded its collections in the haute horlogerie segment with bespoke case designs and fascinating dials, and their 2019 watches are another testament to this trend.

The first of the new releases in the Place Vendôme Etincelles, a 43.5-mm platinum piece using a tourbillon movement with a GMT function. The bezel and lugs of the piece are set with a total of 72 baguette-cut diamond, with the case being secured to the wrist via an alligator strap and platinum buckle. The dial of the watch is separated into three sectors. Towards 12 o’clock is a dedicated hour and minute sub-dial, using “blue-gold” “Fleur de Lys” hands and elongated Roman numerals for the hour markers. On the bottom right side of the face is a counterclockwise sub-dial indicating the second time-zone.

While the left side of the dial showcases the one-minute tourbillon, the centerpiece of the 60-hour manually-wound Calibre SXH2 movement produced in partnership between Czapek and Chronode, the movement is also visible through a sapphire case back and is finished with circular beveling, sandblasted bridges, and a final chamfering by hand. The sandblasted dial also features a subtle day-night indicator at the 6 o’clock position. The Etincelles will be limited to ten examples and will retail for 215,000 CHF or about $212,000 USD.

The Place Vendôme collection also features the new Ombres watch. Overall, the Ombres is very similar to the Etincelles but now uses a diamond-less titanium grade 5 case over the previous platinum. On its grey brass champlevé dial, you’ll notice arrow hands in white gold and accented with Super-Luminova over the more bespoke “Fleur de Lys” for the hour and minute sub-dial, with an additional difference in its black outer ring sans the Roman numerals. The other two sub-dials, along with the day/night indicator and movement powering the piece are still the same. This new piece will be limited to 25 editions and will retail for 88,000 CHF or about $87,000 USD.

The third watch is the Faubourg de Cracovie Tao, a panda-style chronograph outfitted with seamless pushers and an enamel dial. The 41.5-mm case of the piece is produced in steel, with deeply engraved sides and an uncommon integration between its elongated chronograph pushers and signed crown. On the watch’s white grand feu enamel dial are Roman numerals for the hour markers— with a bright red accent used for the 12 o’clock— while two black contrasting sub-dials and a more subtle white register indicate the chronograph minutes, hours, and small seconds.

A small date indicator is also placed at 6 o‘clock position. Sweeping over the face are two rhodium-plated “Fleur de Lys” hands, with a more simple counter used for the chronograph seconds. The piece is powered by the automatic Caliber SXH3, a 65-hour power reserve movement visible with its golden rotor through a sapphire case back, and will retail for 25,500 CHF or about $25,000 USD.

The last three watches are expansions of the brand’s entry-level Quai des Bergues collection, the first of which is the new N°25Ter. This piece uses a 42.5-mm XO steel, “Revolution” style case which is a traditional case shape differentiated with its flat bezel and lengthened right side lending it a slightly asymmetrical appearance. The white dial of the watch is another grand feu enamel production, also featuring elongated black Roman numerals for the hour markers and an additional railroad track outer minute ring. Towards the 7:30 position is a sub-dial for small seconds, while a power reserve meter with an accompanying day indicator is shown in the sub-dial at 4:30 mark. The hour and minute hands are more in the “Fleur de Lys” style, and are available in either “black-gold” or “blue-gold.” Inside the 25ter is the Calibre SXH1 hand-wound movement, which is capable of a 168-hour (or 7-day) power reserve accomplished in its use of double barrel springs and its relatively low frequency of 3 Hz or 21,6000 VpH. Currently, the watch is being marketed at 15,400 CHF or about $15,200 USD.

The final new additions are the Quai des Bergues Sapphire Blue S and Black Enamel S, both very similar to the 25ter though in a smaller 38.5-mm case size. Each of the watches are the same in terms of their steel “Revolution” style cases, dial features, and Calibre SXH1 movements, but differ in enameling and colors. The Sapphire Blue model uses a blue “Flinqué” enamel dial, which requires multiple repetitions of hand-painting enamel coloring on previously engraved — in this case guilloché — dial and then firing it in an ultra-hot oven. While the Black Enamel model uses the traditional and more fragile grand feu technique which requires successive layering and firing of powdered glass to produce the final enamel dial. The Blue Sapphire S model will retail at 16000 CHF or about $15,800 USD, while the Black Enamel S will retail at 16,100 CHF or about $15,900 USD.

To see these watches and more of Czapek’s timepieces, click here to get your tickets to the upcoming WatchTime LA fair at Hudson Loft in Downtown LA.

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