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WatchTime Blog

Welcome to WatchTime’s blog – the watch collector’s daily resource for the latest news on watches and the watch industry. Here, the WatchTime editorial team and other contributors from top watch blogs and online watch magazines post reviews of new watch models, news from the watch industry, reports from watch collector events, and much more.

Silver and Gold: Tudor’s Black Bay 58 Gets a Precious-Metal Refresh (Updated with Live Photos)

It’s no secret that Tudor’s Black Bay has been one of its most successful collections in recent times, and the success of the Fifty-Eight sub-family within that collection has been evident since its release in 2018. Last year, capitalizing upon this success, Tudor unveiled a new blue variation of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight to much...

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Apr 15, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

Panerai Upgrades its Stopwatch Style with New Luminor Chrono in Three References

Few watch brands with military tool-watch roots have attained the iconic heights of Panerai, and yet the Florentine-Swiss maison has never really been known as a go-to maker of that most popular of horological “tools,” the chronograph. At Watches & Wonders this past week, Panerai aimed to change that perception with the release of an...

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Apr 13, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Hermès Launches the Sports-Focused H08 Collection

With most watches of the Watches & Wonders 2021 highlights now revealed, figuring out the top hits of the year is only a matter of comparison and personal taste. Of course, there are the Rolexes, Tudors, Patek Philippes, and Vacheron Constantins, which are always sure to catch lots of attention, but many intriguing models can...

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Apr 13, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

Cartier Rolls Out A Tank for the People, Reviving the ’70s and Debuting a New Solar Movement

Few watch brands demonstrate such universally recognized elegance as Cartier. With watches just as popular among men as they are among women, and delicate styles that straddle the fine lines between jewelry, watch, and fashion-accessory, the French maison speaks to a wide and appreciative audience. This year, in an effort to grow that discussion, and...

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Apr 12, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

The Cutting Edge of Sound: Carl F. Bucherer Introduces Manero Minute Repeater Symphony

Since launching its first proprietary caliber, with its innovative peripherally mounted winding rotor, in the Manero Peripheral timepiece back in 2008, Carl F. Bucherer has adopted “peripheral” design as its technical stock-in-trade. In 2018, the Lucerne-based watchmaker launched a timepiece with a world’s-first “floating” peripheral tourbillon, and this year it takes the concept to its...

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Apr 12, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Bulgari Sets its Seventh Horological Thinness Record with Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

When it comes to ultra-thin watchmaking, few brands have as much claim to the space these days as Bulgari, and in particular its Octo Finissimo collection. The collection launched in its current form in 2014 and has since blazed a trail of world-record-setting thin watches including the Octo Finissimo Automatic, Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, Octo...

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Apr 11, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

Pivot to Green: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 90th Anniversary Celebration of the Reverso Begins with Green-Dial Tribute Edition

Not many watch models endure for 90 years, but Jaeger-LeCoultre’s iconic Reverso, famously developed for polo players in 1931, is a significant exception. The model’s clean Art Deco lines and pivoting rectangular case — originally designed so the watch’s front side could be flipped over to protect the crystal from being shattered by an errant...

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Apr 10, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Modern Chimes for Modern Times: Ulysse Nardin Strikes Gold with Blast Hourstriker

Ulysse Nardin’s most riveting release from 2020 was the Blast, introduced at last summer’s Geneva Watch Days, which married a skeletonized self-winding tourbillon caliber with an avant-garde, stealth-aircraft-inspired case configuration. At Watches & Wonders this week, the Le Locle-based brand took the Blast to its next — and thus far highest — level of high-horology...

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Apr 9, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Bigger Case, Deeper Dive Rating, and Three New Colorways: This is the Zenith Defy Extreme (with Hands-on Photos)

Today at Watches & Wonders, Zenith unveiled the latest extension of its cutting-edge, “resolutely futuristic” Defy collection, called Defy Extreme. The new collection, which the manufacture describes as “all-terrain 1/100th of a second chronograph[s],” encompasses three models and essentially represents the most supercharged version of the Defy, with a larger and more accentuated silhouette to...

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Apr 9, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

Once In a Century, Times Three: Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques American 1921 Collection

Might there be another “Roaring Twenties” at the end of the dreadful pandemic era that has ushered in this decade? It’s too early to say as of yet, but if so, Vacheron Constantin has created the perfect timepiece for celebrating. The Historiques American 1921 takes its Art Deco design DNA from a timepiece issued by...

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Apr 9, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Prince of Tides: Introducing the Oris Dat Watt Limited Edition (with Live Photos)

Oris has introduced a limited-edition Aquis with a rather unique, gradient blue-gray dial (Ref. 761 7765 4185-Set) that was created in cooperation with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat to support its mission to conserve the Wadden Sea, the world’s largest tidal system and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. Based on the 43.5-mm Oris...

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Apr 8, 2021 by Roger Ruegger

Montblanc Blends Sand Tones with Bronze in 1858 Geosphere LE 1858, Inspired by a Reinhold Messner Desert Trek

Since its launch in early 2018, the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere has held a central spot in the brand’s vintage-influenced 1858 collection, and also served as a de-facto flagship for some of its most innovative designs and concepts. This week at Watches & Wonders, Montblanc unveils the latest Geosphere with a distinctive design inspired by adventure...

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Apr 8, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

Rolex Ventures Into Two-Tone Territory with New 36-mm Explorer in Yellow Rolesor

In its inaugural appearance at this week’s Watches & Wonders virtual exhibition, Rolex reached into its rich past to present a new version of its legendary Oyster Perpetual Explorer — sized at the same modest-by-modern-standards dimensions as the original model from the 1950s and outfitted in the brand’s two-tone steel-and-gold Rolesor case and bracelet. Launched...

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Apr 7, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Meet the Next Generation of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer (with Live Photos)

The new Aquaracer from TAG Heuer is called the Aquaracer Professional 300. It still features the previous generation’s signature 12-faceted bezel, but has been equipped with a new set of sword hands, octagonal indexes, a new folding clasp with fine adjustment, and a date window at 6 o’clock (with a round magnifying lens), resulting in...

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Apr 7, 2021 by Roger Ruegger

Oris Goes Pro with the AquisPro Date Calibre 400 (with Live Photos)

Oris’s new professional diver’s watch, the AquisPro Date (Ref. 01 400 7767 7754-07 4 26 64BTEB), is the latest model to be equipped with the brand’s in-house Calibre 400 automatic movement. Boasting elevated levels of anti-magnetism, increased accuracy, a five-day power reserve and a 10-year guarantee, Calibre 400 was just recently awarded the technical prize...

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Apr 7, 2021 by Roger Ruegger

A Nautical Send-Off for the 5711/1A: Patek Philippe Nautilus in Sunburst Olive Green

After the brand’s announcement that the Ref. 5711/1A-010 in stainless steel would soon be discontinued, Patek Philippe is now launching a final model in stainless steel with an olive green dial (Ref. 5711/1A-014) – a hue that never existed before in the Nautilus collection and has become extremely popular in recent years. The 40-mm case...

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Apr 7, 2021 by Roger Ruegger

List vs. Ask: Comparing Steel Rolex Prices at Retail to Prices on the Secondary Market

It is no secret that many watches within Rolex’s steel range can be difficult to come by at retail prices. With wait lists stretching for weeks to months to even years, depending on the dealer and the model reference, many collectors are now turning to watch resellers and the grey market to cut their wait...

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Dec 18, 2020 by Caleb Anderson

Hacking Seconds: A Quick Story about Turkish Hackers, Blackmailing and a Potential Backdoor to Instagram

As some of you might already have noticed, WatchTime’s Instagram account got hacked last week. Unfortunately, attacks on Instagram users, while rarer than other forms of cyber crime, are becoming increasingly common (and sophisticated), and not only high-profiles celebs have recently come under attack. In short, we were not the first nor will we be the last victim of...

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Sep 19, 2020 by Roger Ruegger

CLASSIC DESIGNS:

5 Iconic Watches from the Mind of Gérald Genta

We take a look at 5 of legendary watch designer Gerald Genta's most notable watch creations, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

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May 4, 2020 by WatchTime

Fair Games: A Look at the Future of Swiss Watch Trade Shows

Two weeks ago, on April 14, Baselworld’s parent company MCH Group took note “with great surprise […] of the cancellation of major exhibitors at Baselworld,” namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Tudor, and Chopard. Two years before that, on July 30, 2018, the company’s former CEO René Kamm was already caught off guard by Swatch Group’s...

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Apr 23, 2020 by Roger Ruegger
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