Sometimes, I talk too fast and too much, especially when I’m holding an incredible timepiece in my hands. My problem is that when confronted with something stimulating, the words in my head effervesce and brim over like Champagne emanating from a bottle held aloft by a victorious motorsports champion. I struggle to contain my enthusiasm for horological matters.
When I am excited, the alacrity of my speech gains momentum, adopting a staccato style and becoming barely decipherable as it reaches a crescendo. The passion I have for fine watchmaking is manifest with energetic speech and animated non-verbal behavior. Indeed, I would make a hapless poker player, such is this open disclosure of my inner thoughts.
Part of my problem is that my brain tends to over-process thoughts, working faster than the mechanics of speech will allow. Ironically, this is the exact opposite to the norm, where people typically use “filler” words such as “um,” “so,” “like,” and “well” to fill the silence while the brain catches up to the mouth.
The ultimate objective when designing a complicated watch is to impart the numerous thoughts of the movement in a clear, simple-to-interpret form. The new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary,” in my opinion, conveys an array of information succinctly with a welcome absence of ambiguity.
Revisiting the icon
This year, IWC has revisited its iconic Portugieser collection, boldly exploring design elements of various models which, on the face of it, already appeared perfect beforehand. Where Christian Knoop, IWC’s creative director, demonstrates his incredible talent is by taking already excellent watch designs, with seemingly refined elements, and somehow finding subtle improvements.
However, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” and its sibling, the Portugieser Annual Calendar, are two completely new models for 2015.
I tried on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” when it was launched in January 2015 at SIHH and immediately fell under its spell. The watch garners attention with the unusual pairing of conventional hands with digital date and month displays. The resultant dial relates much information to the wearer with perfect diction. This is an intelligent design because, despite presenting several functions, the wearer is able to absorb each parcel of data with matchless lucidity.
While in London recently, I visited the recently opened IWC Boutique on New Bond Street, a retail avenue that plays host to the world’s finest luxury brands. Admiring several watches, including some rare “boutique limited editions,” I chanced upon a platinum-cased Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary.” I should explain at this juncture that the model is limited to 25 pieces worldwide in platinum (along with a further 75 pieces in each of the two 18k rose gold options), hence the probability of finding this timepiece again remains low.
The dial:
The silver-plated dial deftly walks a judicious course between discreet consumption and evident luxury. Indeed, it looks tasteful, yet sumptuous and refined, all at the same time. The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are presented in a highly polished silvery hue, whilst the super-svelte central chronograph seconds hand evinces a blue tincture. Two subdials occupy the central area of the dial, positioned one above the other. Each subdial is snailed and shares the same-size footprint, conferring a welcome balance to proceedings.
The uppermost subdial is an ingenious chronograph register, displaying both elapsed minutes and hours using two blued hands that share the same axis. This perpetual calendar is paired with not merely a chronograph but a flyback chronograph. Towards the southerly aspect of the dial, just above 6 o’clock, a second subdial displays the running seconds and is equipped with a hacking function. A leap-year display features at the core of this display.
This is not the first time IWC has produced a digital date/digital month display for a perpetual calendar, but it is the first time it has featured one on a Portugieser watch. In 2012, the Schaffhausen-based watch company released the IWC Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. This means of conveying the myriad functions typical of a perpetual calendar is both unique and yet highly logical. No one, single element unduly dominates the dial layout. Encircling the dial, the minute track is stylish and augments ease of read-off.
The case:
The 45-mm case is generously proportioned but not cumbersome. It granted a pleasing wrist-feel and seemed at one with my arm, quietly entwined in a loving embrace.
Unlike on the IWC Portuguiser Chronograph Classic, which shares much design language in common with the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary,” the chronograph push-pieces are not capstan-like in profile but lozenge-shaped. They are different, but no less appealing.
While the upper surfaces of the lugs, the bezel and the caseback are highly polished, the caseband is satin-brushed, tempering the tone of the watch to perfection.
An exhibition caseback reveals the in-house Calibre 89801 movement, and IWC has equipped this watch with a splendid black alligator leather strap made by Santoni.
The movement:
IWC continues its journey towards increased independence and complete vertical integration. A major element to its 2015 SIHH campaign was the release of more manufacture movements. The Calibre 89801 that powers this watch is a beautiful movement. It is delightfully decorated with circular Côtes de Genève motif, an 18-carat red gold oscillating mass and blued screws. The movement has an impressive power reserve of 68 hours.
Closing remarks:
The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” is a handsome timepiece, which displays a great deal of information in a crisp, clean and succinct manner.
Despite this watch being a perpetual calendar and flyback chronograph, displaying many indications, it never speaks too quickly or says too much. Indeed, despite the movement consisting of 474 parts and numerous mechanical maneuvers seamlessly taking place within the case, this IWC communicates with consummate ease, adopting a “short and sweet” means of imparting the time.
Finally, I come to the issue of temptation. This watch offers a dapper platinum case, an in-house movement, several complications and remarkable value for the money, priced at a comparatively reasonable price of £46,900. There is no question that I find the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” a very tempting proposition.
Key remarks:
Model: IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary”
Reference: IW397201
Movement: Caliber 89801, self-winding movement; frequency = 28,800 vph (4 Hz) 51 jewels, power reserve = 68 hours, number of components = 474, indications = hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, date, month, leap-year display, flyback chronograph
Case: Platinum, diameter = 45 mm, height = 16.5 mm, water resistance = 30 meters
Strap/bracelet: Black alligator leather strap with folding clasp
Price: £46,900 (recommended retail price as of April 24th, 2015)
Where I tried on the watch: IWC Boutique, 138 New Bond Street, London, United Kingdom, England, W1S 2TJ. T: +44 (0) 203 618 3900, E: boutique.london@iwc.com
Limited Edition: 25 pieces total
