Escapement Watch Review: Seiko Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph


An aperture, framed in highly polished steel, is positioned at 3 o’clock. It reveals the date, pairing black text with an immaculate white disk. The disk is not deep-set within the case — a problem with some modular chronographs — but instead sits high, close to the surface of the adjacent dial, allowing the date to be readily seen.

A red-tipped GMT hand provides the convenience of displaying the hour in a second time zone. Unusually, the hand makes one revolution every 24 hours, with the odd-numbered hours shown inside the chapter ring. This function will prove especially useful for those businessmen who frequently partake in long-haul travel.

Two chronograph registers are positioned on the right-hand side of the dial, unusually arranged one on top of the other. Again, this layout provides another point of differentiation from many Swiss and German watches on the market. The 30-minute chronograph register sits above a 12-hour chronograph register and both employ a combination of black lines and Arabic numerals to impart the elapsed time.

One aspect of the design language that I feel is key to the Grand Seiko’s success is the consistent use of details. Small Arabic numerals and short strokes, presented in black, appear on various elements of the dial composition. There is a welcome restraint to the use of colors and styles, which confers cohesion and harmony.

A power-reserve indicator is located between 7 and 8 o’clock. The hand arcs downwards, ultimately pointing towards 7 o’clock when the mainspring is fully wound, denoting 72 hours of energy stored within the spring barrel.

A small seconds display resides at 9 o’clock. The silver colored hand seamlessly advances.

The case:

I have waxed lyrical about Grand Seiko cases on many occasions and I am mindful of not repeating myself. However, each surface of the case is polished to a matchless standard. The exacting standards of Grand Seiko can be readily discerned with an inquisitive finger. Each element of the case composition grants a glass-like smoothness, something I have never encountered with any other watch brand.

The gleaming brilliance of a Zaratsu polished case
The gleaming brilliance of a Zaratsu polished case

Two screw-down push-pieces straddle the crown on the right flank of the case. They are substantial in scale and proffer an aesthetic unlike any other chronograph push-pieces I can recall. To be honest, it was not love at first sight but, with increased familiarity, I have succumbed to their charms.

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Three quarters of the length of each push piece is adorned with a knurled motif. This textured surface is simple to grip and turning it counterclockwise allows the push-piece to be pressed. The action of the push-pieces is silky smooth, courtesy of the column wheel and vertical clutch within the timepiece.

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  1. George Tobler

    Bought my Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chrono 4 months ago. Despite its large size, it wears very comfortably. Most importantly, it is incredibly accurate and well built. Last month, it was off by one single second. It is in a completely different category with its precision from my mostly more expensive Swiss chronometers from Omega, Zenith (otherwise my favorite) and Breguet. Swiss watchmakers beware! Don‘t let anybody fool you: this is not quartz competition. It is a fully mechanical watch with many more parts than any Swiss watch I know of. Good thing (for Swiss watchmakers) that Zenith promised to bring us its Defy. There is hope. Can‘t wait!

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  2. DokDoom

    Excellent write up Angus.

    The Grand Seikos are growing on me in a big way to the point that when I buy my next watch I’ll definitely give these a going deal of consideration.

    The sheer quality of the dial/hands/case is what’s really attracting me here.

    It’ll be interesting to see how Grand Seiko are perceived over the next few years as they become more available outside of Japan.

    On an unrelated (sort of) note I’m still kicking myself for not picking up a Seiko Ananta when in Singapore a few years ago. now it looks like Seiko have phased them out :(

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  3. Acrowot

    I loved the write up about the Grand Seiko. Would love to be able to spend money on one. I have quite a few Seiko watches and have a Premier Kinetic, which is a fabulous timekeeper. From our winter time to spring time change of the hour (October – March), this watch has gained just 2 seconds. Fabulous timekeeping. Thank you for your piece about the Grand Seiko.

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  4. Carl Dreher

    Seiko “Spring Drive” technology always leaves me cold. At its heart, it is still an electronic watch. The time-keeping element is quartz. It is all very clever, yes, but it just seems like a hybrid that neither achieves the engineering honesty of a purely electronic watch nor the artistic purity of a mechanical watch.

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