The Tudor North Flag derives its name and design inspiration from the British North Greenland Expedition in the early 1950s, in which members of the expedition team wore circa-1952 Tudor Oyster Prince models. These “tool watches” were instrumental in carrying out this exploratory mission to some of the earth’s harshest climatic conditions. The North Flag derives some of its “scientific equipment” look from these early watches: a satin-brushed steel case (40 mm in diameter) with ergonomic curves, highlighted by a bezel composed of matte ceramic on one side and brushed steel on the other, along with a conical winding crown that screws down for a 100-meter water resistance. The caseback features a sapphire window — a first for Tudor, believe it or not — through which one can view the watchmakers’ pride and joy, automatic Caliber MT5621.
Tudor’s movement — which, according to Kelly, has been in the works since 2010 — features a minimal level of decoration and a matte look, which is both perfectly suitable for the North Flag’s tool-watch aesthetic and instrumental in keeping the price point at a comfortable level for Tudor fans. However, it does not skimp on many other important technical features: it’s equipped with both a date display and a power-reserve indicator; it’s got a power reserve of 70 hours; it beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a variable inertia oscillator equipped with a silicon balance spring; and its automatic winding system is bidirectional. Perhaps most notably, and in another first for the Tudor brand, Caliber MT5621 is officially chronometer-certified by COSC.
The Tudor North Flag is available with either an integrated, satin-finished steel bracelet with polished-link interfaces, or with a matte black leather strap with yellow top-stitching and lining, both with folding clasps. So what does one pay for the first true Tudor manufacture watch? Just $3,550 for the strap version and $3,675 for the bracelet.
WatchTime contributor Rob Velasquez had a chance to shoot and to try on the Tudor North Flag at Baselworld. Below are a few photos Rob took at Tudor’s booth.
This article was originally published on March 20, 2015, and has been updated.