Baselworld 2014: Christophe Claret Maestoso with Live Images


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Christophe Claret’s latest superwatch features a unique traditional pivoted detent escapement with constant force and a cylindrical balance spring. The movement incorporates three patented developments. The entire watch – case, hands and all the parts of the movement, including the balance spring – was designed, manufactured and assembled in Claret’s workshops. This is the ultimate in in-house.

Detent escapements top even tourbillons when it comes to precise timekeeping. However they are not considered suitable for wristwatches because they are easily affected by shocks. Even a small bump can cause the escapement to stop, or even to release the escape wheel and break. Overbanking is another danger. Excess amplitude can affect timekeeping.

Christophe Claret in his booth ahead of his press conference.
Christophe Claret in his booth ahead of his press conference.

Claret uses an anti-pivot cam, integral to the spring balance, in conjunction with a safety finger. This group of components is fitted between a mainplate and two sapphire bridges, and it pivots on a ball bearing that distributes the load on the escapement. This system is patented. The sapphire bridges allow the owner to appreciate the mechanism.

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Claret has also endowed the watch with a constant force system. The constant force spring, wound up by the barrel, releases the same energy at regular intervals, making the torque to the escapement more constant. Twin mainspring barrels guarantee an an optimal power reserve of more than 80 hours. Finally, a patented stop seconds mechanism stops the balance when setting the time.

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The Maestoso case measures 44mm in diameter and is available in 5N red gold, anthracite PVD titanium with white gold, or anthracite PVD titanium with red gold, priced from $178,000 to $186,000.

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Maestoso technical specifications

 

Movement:

Caliber:                                   DTC07, mechanical hand-wound

Dimensions:                          Diameter: 31 mm
                                                Height: (without hands) 8.60 mm

Number of components:         301

Number of jewels:                  44

 

Power reserve:                        80+ hours

Four barrels fitted in parallel

Escapement:

       Detent in grade 5 titanium

       Frequency: 2 Hz (14,400 Vib/h)

       Balance with gold screw

       Cylindrical balance-spring

       Anti-over-bankingsecurity device

       Escapement mounted on a shock-absorbing bridge

       Balance stop system activated by pulling the crown

       Regulator with micrometric adjustment via curved staff

                                   
Functions:

       Hour and minute display

       Constant force at 4 o’clock

 

Distinctive features: 

Charles X style skeletonized stepped bridges

 

 

 

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  1. Richard Driscoll

    Thank you for including the prices of the Christoph Claret watches – we need price information on all the watches WatchTime reviews or details. In numerous instances, this information is omitted. There shouldn’t be a secret about price – how else can one determine whether a particular watch is within ones financial possibility. I really do appreciate the in-depth analysis your publication provides.
    RD

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