In 2014, Patek Philippe‘s Ref. 5960/1A Annual Calendar Chronograph in stainless steel became one of the manufacture’s rare classically elegant watches that combine a complicated movement with a stainless steel case. When the model was first was launched in 2006, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph in platinum was the manufacture’s first self-winding chronograph, featuring a prominent monocounter and three large calendar apertures. The model quickly established itself as one of the most coveted timepieces of the Patek Philippe portfolio.
Patek Philippe‘s stainless steel watches have always ranked among the most desirable timepieces because they were crafted only in small numbers. They were not regularly produced until 1976, when the manufacture introduced the casually elegant Nautilus line. Its memorable slogan: “One of the world’s most expensive watches is made of steel.” Twenty years later, the attractively stylish Aquanaut was also endowed with a stainless steel case. Since 2014, the Ref. 5960/1A is another one of these seductive exceptions:
Ref. 5960/1A-001 in stainless steel – the letter “A” in the model designation 5960/1A stands for acier (steel in French)
Dial: silvery opaline, blackened gold applied hour markers. Steel bracelet with folding clasp. Sapphire-crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Case diameter: 40.5 mm. Height: 13.5 mm.
The new 40.5 mm stainless steel case melds classic elegance with masculine sportiness. It emphasizes the active and dynamic nature of the chronograph and underscores its function as a timekeeping instrument. Nonetheless, the new Ref. 5960/1A has a decidedly elegant nimbus attributable to the balanced, gently rounded case contours and the superb finishing touches that reflect the competence of Patek Philippe‘s casemaking ateliers. The artisans are required to accrue several years of experience before being entrusted with the finissage of the manufacture’s cases. Because of its hardness, stainless steel challenges the skills of the case specialists and imposes special requirements on their tools. It takes much longer than a gold case would to polish a steel case with consecutively finer abrasives until it reflects light with an immaculate sheen.
Technical elegance also characterizes the new silvery-gray dial with its striking red accents, bright-dark contrasts, and the dynamic, performance-oriented looks of its explicitly three-dimensional architecture. An uncommon feature in a Patek Philippe watch: the red “1” in the date aperture, which kicks off each month with a colorful stimulus while the dates from the 2nd to the 31st days are displayed black on white. It is a genuine premiere for Patek Philippe, as is the combination of an Annual Calendar chronograph with a steel case and the stainless steel “drop” links bracelet that underscores the functionality of the Ref. 5960 as a measuring instrument.
Other versions:
Ref. 5960/01G-001 in white-gold:
In 2017, Patek Philippe introduced a version with white-gold case and blue dial, calf leather strap with contrast stitching, and guilloched pushers, paying tribute to some of Patek Philippe “vintage” models. Sapphire-crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Case diameter: 40.5 mm. Height: 13.5 mm.
Ref. 5960/1A-010 in stainless steel:
Also in 2017, Patek Philippe introduced a second version with stainless steel case, bracelet and blue black dial. Sapphire-crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Case diameter: 40.5 mm. Height: 13.5 mm.
Cal. CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H
Patek Philippe‘s Ref. 5960 is powered by an in-house chronograph movement with 60-minute and 12-hour counter, annual calendar, day/night indication. Diameter: 33 mm. Height: 7.68 mm. Parts: 456. Bridges: 14. Jewels: 40. Power reserve: Min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours. Rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding. Balance: Gyromax. Vibrations/hour: 28,800 (4 Hz). Balance spring: Spiromax. Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal.
No matter how precise it may be it, esthetically speaking, it is an ugly watch with a design that doest not at all appeal to me.
This reminds me of the FP Journe Octa Sport watches. All of these watches are obviously very finely made, but in non-precious case materials like Steel and Titanium. For me, I would still prefer a perhaps lesser Patek in gold. Maybe this is meant to be someone’s second (or third or fourth) Patek Philippe.
PP Ref. 5960 Flyback with Chronograph Annual Calendar is a 21st century gem among other PPs. In the next 25 years, this stainless steel PP would triple in its market price. I am proud of being a guardian for this PP for my family’s next generations.