Ulysse Nardin has once again utilized the expertise of watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin — the creative mind behind the brand’s groundbreaking Trilogy of Time astronomical timepieces — to launch an entirely new family of watches with innovative moon-phase complications called Classico Luna.
The movement Oechslin and UN developed for the Classico Luna, Caliber UN-829, draws its inspiration from that of the Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck limited edition, whose hallmark was its realistic depiction of the moon’s rotation. The Classico Luna has a more streamlined, traditional look than the Moonstruck, with a slim case (in stainless steel or rose gold) and a silver or black dial with three Roman numerals (at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock) and simple, thin indices at the other hour positions. The date is in a small, round window at 6 o’clock.
The watch’s most interesting feature is, of course, the moon-phase complication, which is displayed in a small, circular aperture that rotates around the center of the dial, once every 12 hours, depicting the angle of illumination of the moon as it does so. As it makes its entire 29 1/2-day moon-phase cycle, the moon disk in the aperture changes, increasing or decreasing in size as the moon waxes or wanes. The moon-phase is set by means of a pusher located between 5 o’clock and 6 o’clock on the side of the case.
With its understated, elegant dial and ingenious yet subtle moon-phase complication, the Classico Luna is among Ulysse Nardin’s dressier models for gentlemen. The feminine version, the Classico Lady Luna, is also available in steel or gold cases, with or without diamonds set into the bezel and lugs. The Lady Luna also offers, in one of its models, a mother-of-pearl dial. Prices range from $8,500 to $15,400 for the stainless steel models and from $18,900 to $45,000 for rose gold; Lady Luna models with mother-of-pearl dials and diamonds range from $8,900 (stainless steel case) to $17,800 (rose gold case). Click on the watch photos for larger images.
Movement: Caliber UN-829, automatic; 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon-phase
Case: Steel or 18k rose gold, nonreflective sapphire crystal, sapphire exhibition caseback affixed with screws, water-resistant to 50 meters; on alligator strap with buckle or stainless steel or rose-gold bracelet with deployant clasp
Dial and hands: Silver or black dial with Roman numerals; mother-of-pearl dial on the Lady Luna
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