SIHH 2016:

Introducing the Revamped Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection


Vacheron Constantin introduced a completely revised Overseas collection at SIHH this year, including five new models and three new calibers. The new calibers, including a chronograph and a special ladies’ caliber, carry the Geneva Hallmark, a key step in the brand’s goal to convert 100 percent of its production to the Geneva Seal standard by the end of the year. Vacheron also introduced an anti-magnetic component to all Overseas calibers, one that uniquely allows for open casebacks.

Overseas chrono or 5500V/000R-B074
Overseas Chronograph with the new Caliber 5200
1. IMG_7092

The new automatic Caliber 5200, five years in development, is a column-wheel chronograph with vertical coupling clutch, replacing a Frédéric Piguet movement previously used in the Overseas chronograph model. Twin barrels with thicker mainsprings ensure a 50-hour power reserve. The second new caliber is the 5100, with hours, minutes, seconds and date, housed in a 41-mm case. It is an automatic movement, with two mainsprings, delivering a 60-hour power reserve. The new 5300 is a smaller caliber, made for a 37-mm ladies’ model set with 84 diamonds on the bezel, totaling one carat. Functions include hours, minutes, and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. Both the 5100 and 5300 replace Jaeger-LeCoultre movements previously used in Overseas models.

Overseas Auto 4500V/000R-B127 bracelet cuir leather
Overseas Automatic with Caliber 5100

 

Overseas lady nude 2305V/00R-B077 bracelet cuir leather
Overseas ladies’ with Caliber 5300, with a diamond bezel

The final two new models in the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection contain the existing ultra-thin caliber 1120, also used in the brand’s Patrimony collection. The automatic Caliber 1120 QP is housed in a new Overseas perpetual calendar with moon phase and leap year indicator; it measures only 4.05 mm thick; the case is only 8.1 mm thick. The time-only Caliber 1120 is a mere 2.45 mm thick, cased in an ultra-slim dress watch with no seconds or date display.

Overseas ultra-thin QP 4300V/120G-B102
Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar with Caliber 1120 QP
Overseas ultra-thin 2000V/120G-B122 bracelet caoutchouc rubber
Overseas ultra-thin time-only purist model, with Caliber 1120

All calibers in the five new Overseas models have been fitted with soft-iron inner casings for anti-magnetic protection. Unlike other brands’ models fitted with this technology, the Overseas watches have open casebacks. It is typically impossible to view the movement through a sapphire crystal caseback in “anti-magnetized” watches because the inner soft-iron shell covers the back of the movement. The shell in the new Overseas collection, however, is positioned just inside the casing ring, which is steeply angled towards the back to protect the movement without covering it altogether, allowing for an opening. Vacheron Constantin says this positioning protects the watch to a level of 200-400 gauss, compared to the industry standard of 60 gauss. (The highest standard among watches with soft-iron inner casings and closed casebacks is the Rolex Milgauss, with 1,000 gauss anti-magnetic protection. Other brands, such as Omega, equip some movements with escapement components made of anti-magnetic materials, eliminating the need for a soft-iron shell altogether while providing up to 5,000 gauss protection.)

12. IMG_7119

 

Overseas Auto 4500V/110A-B128
The 22-karat gold rotors are engraved with a wind rose compass, the symbol of the Overseas collection.

The movements in the new Overseas collection are all automatic, with large, 22k gold rotors engraved with a wind rose compass motif, a symbol of world travel that reflects the spirit of the Overseas collection. Water resistance varies between models from 50 meters to 150 meters. Each is equipped with an “easy-fit” interchangeable strap system that works by twisting the bracelet at the lugs by 180 degrees. Options include a metal bracelet, leather with nubuck lining, or a rubber strap. Quick bracelet-change systems were a popular feature among the brands’ introductions at SIHH this year.

Overseas Auto 4500V/110A-B128
Overseas Auto 4500V/110A-B128
Overseas ultra-thin QP 4300V/120G-B102bracelet cuir leather
Overseas ultra-thin QP 4300V/120G-B102 bracelet cuir leather
Calibre 5200 Overseas verso
Caliber 5200

 

4 Responses to “Introducing the Revamped Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection”

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  1. What is “Geneva Hallmarked?” My Vacheron Constantine Overseas is among the first of the marque; 42040, and right beneath “Vacheron Constantine” is the word, “Geneve”–does that mean it’s Geneva Hallmarked?

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  2. Sheesh, lighten up Francis….
    These email dispatches are brief intros to new pieces/collections…I doubt the author had much, if any access to, the actual pieces themselves let alone editorial license to do an in depth review/comparison. You must be new to Watchtime ir never read their magazine which features the closest thing to objective review & critique in the industry.

    Reply
  3. What is the accuracy rate of the new movements?
    Up there with the Grand Seikos and Pateks?

    Reply
  4. Gregory Budzenski

    “an anti-magnetic component to all Overseas calibers, one that uniquely allows for open caseback” …The Omega Master Coaxial is far superior which you fail to note as a fair technology comparison and, as such, puts a lie to UNIQUELY ALLOWS. Fair comparisons head-to-head are more informative, less sleazy, and pursue the truth. As a publication, you obfuscate the truth, are sleazy, and promulgate lies.

    Reply
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