Carl F. Bucherer’s new timepiece, introduced this week at the 2012 Baselworld watch fair, elegantly combines two of the most popular complications. The aptly named Chrono Perpetual uses an in-house movement, made at the brand’s atelier, to power both a chronograph and a perpetual calendar with moon-phase and leap year. Find wallpaper image inside.
perpetual calendar has a correction-free date display at 12 o’clock, day-of-the-week display at 6 o’clock, month and leap year indication at 9 o’clock, and moon-phase at 3 o’clock. The chronograph has a flyback function and can be used with the tachymeter scale along the dial’s periphery. All these functions are powered by a Vaucher movement, made exclusively for Carl F. Bucherer.
Watches with so many functions often have a very busy dial, but the designers of the Manero ChronoPerpetual strove to emphasize readability by incorporating several different levels and surface finishes. They also integrated the chronograph counters for the hours (6 o’clock) and minutes (9 o’clock), and the small running seconds display (12 o’clock), into the existing calendar-display subdials, so that each of the subdials serves two functions; fine black lines offer delimitation between the displays. A narrow, center-mounted hand indictates the chronograph seconds. The dial has wedge-shaped indices and tapering, Super-LumiNova-coated hours and minutes hands. The chronograph hands are in a discreet black. The center of the silver-colored dial is matt, while the chronograph counters and the minute division ring are brushed, lending the dial its sense of depth. The moon-phase indication has an anthracite-colored background and a silver-colored moon disk.
This case is in rose gold or stainless steel. It has been subtly redesigned from previous Manero models, with contrasting satin-finished and polished elements, more angular lugs, a more concave bezel, and a domed sapphire crystal. The chronograph push-pieces are polished. The sapphire exhibition caseback offers a view of the movement and its 22k rose-gold rotor.
The Manero Chrono Perpetual in rose gold is a limited edition of 100 pieces; the price is $52,600. There is also a stainless steel version for $33,000, limited to 150 pieces, and the “Stallion” model, limited to 30 pieces, is $49,800.
Movement: Caliber CFB 1904, automatic. Diameter = 30 mm, height 7.6 mm. 49 jewels. 50-hour power reserve.
Functions: Chronograph with flyback. Perpetual calendar with date, day, month, leap year and moon-phase indication
Case: 18k rose gold. Diameter = 42.5 mm, height 14.3 mm. Sapphire crystal with nonreflective coating on both sides. Sapphire exhibition caseback. Water-resistant to 30 meters. Louisiana alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, with 18k rose-gold pin buckle.
Limited edition of 100 pieces