Papillon means “butterfly” in French, and in this instance it refers to the unique and patented system for displaying the minutes on the new Papillon Voyager dual time zone travel watch from Bulgari. Find wallpaper images, launch date and pricing inside.
Bulgari’s new travel watch offers an elegant and artful display that takes a few seconds to grasp. First, the easy parts: the local hours are displayed digitally in “jump-hour” fashion in the large window at 12 o’clock. The second time zone is indicated by the pointed end of the blued, centrally-mounted, tear-drop-shaped hand, which points to a skeletonized, guilloché 24-hour subdial. The local time is set via the crown, while the 24 hour hand is adjusted forward and back with push-buttons located at 10 o’clock (+) and 2 o’clock (-).
Here’s where things get creative: as shown below, the minutes are indicated by a pair of small hands with points at both ends, each of which turns or spins on a central axis while also revolving as a pair around a central point. Think of two planets rotating or spinning as they circle the Sun, and you have the idea.
The 60 minutes in each hour are demarcated on a pair of concentric pink-gold semicircles, each with its own minute scale. The inner display marks off each individual minute, with numeric indications for 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55 minutes. The outer display has larger numerals indicating 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 minutes.
The two small hands mentioned above take turns indicating the minutes, as follows: for most of each hour, only one of the hands is visible, and it points to the current minutes. As the end of the hour draws near, the hands perform a “changing of the guard” maneuver. When the hand that is currently indicating the minutes reaches 55, the other hand “reports for duty” by making a quarter- turn, taking over the minutes display at the top of the hour or “00”. The other hand, now “off-duty”, also makes a quarter turn and goes into hiding. In the image below, the local time is 8:02. The minute hand on the right shows the time, while the minute hand on the left is rotating to its hidden position.
The entire display is presented on two levels. The aesthetic is both complex and harmonious: everything radiates outward from a central point. This sophisticated mechanism is housed in a signature Daniel Roth Collection double-ellipse case in 18k pink gold measuring a substantial 46 x 43 x 15.2 mm. Water resistance is 30 meters. The case is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal that is glare-proofed on both sides. An alligator strap and pink gold triple-blade folding clasp complete the package.
The Bulgari Papillon Voyageur is issued in a limited edition of 99 pieces and it is scheduled to be available after March 12. The suggested retail price is $52,100.
Additional technical information appears below the image.
BULGARI PAPILLON VOYAGEUR TECHNICAL DATA SHEET
Reference: DR1307, mechanical self-winding caliber
Diameter: 11 ½ lines
Display: Jumping hour, Papillon minutes indication, dual-time display by a central hand and +/- time-zone adjustment via dedicated push-button.
Jeweling: 26 jewels
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28,800 vph
Winding: Automatic unidirectional
Balance: Annular with three spokes, in Glucydur
Index-assembly: Fine adjustment screw
Adjustment: 5 positions
Bridges: Adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Oscillating weight: Bimetallic
Rims of the bridges: Chamfered and polished
Jewel surrounds: Diamond-polished, tone-on-tone