Under the leadership of its ambitious president Georges Kern, Roger Dubuis has spent the last few years retooling its collection, discontinuing some underperforming families while adding new ones like the Pulsion and Monégasque. However, the flagship of the brand remains its iconic Excalibur, which despite its continuing popularity has also undergone some alterations in the design of its dial and case. The results are evident in the more elegant, streamlined Automatic, the “entry-level” Excalibur.
The watch’s 42-mm-diameter case — available in rose gold or stainless steel — retains the angular, beveled notches in its fluted bezel, but the fluting is more delicate, reflecting the shape of the Dauphine hour and minute hands on the sunburst-finished dial. The revamped case also has no crown guard, which lends the case a more traditional, symmetrical aesthetic. The dial still has the large, stylized Roman numerals radiating from the center, and a rather large small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The minutes are marked on an exterior flange on the dial’s periphery, which is accented at each full hour by square applied markers. The rose-gold model has either a silvered dial with black Roman numerals or an anthracite gray dial with darker gray-toned Roman numerals, while the steel version has a silvered dial with black numerals. (Click on watch photos for larger images.)
The movement is Roger Dubuis’s Caliber RD620, developed and produced in-house, which has an automatic winding system via a micro-rotor. Visible through the sapphire caseback, it contains 184 parts, including 35 jewels; beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph; and offers a power reserve of 52 hours. It has rhodium-plated parts and côtes de Genève decoration. Like all watches produced by Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Automatic meets all the requirements to earn the prestigious “Poinçon de Genève” or “Geneva Seal,” a hallmark of quality issued by the Canton of Geneva to a select number of watch manufacturers. Roger Dubuis is the only watch company that makes all of its movements in accordance with this criteria.This watch’s movement is also certified as a chronometer by the Swiss testing agency COSC.
Both rose-gold models are $25,800; the watch with a white dial comes on a black alligator leather strap with a rose-gold folding clasp; the one with a gray dial has a brown alligator leather strap. The stainless-steel version ($14,300) has a black strap and steel folding buckle.
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