Maurice Lacroix’s most talked-about model in recent years has been the one that embodies the concept of “hip to be square”: the Roue Carrée (literally, “squared wheel”) from its flagship Masterpiece collection, which features a square-shaped gear wheel mounted on the dial. This year, in addition to the original version in a stainless steel case, Maurice Lacroix has released a model with an attractive rose-gold case and an elegantly decorated brown dial.
The Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde in rose gold boasts the same clever dial construction as its predecessors: the dial has, in fact, been constructed on the movement plate itself, and features a “Grand Colimaçon” decorative pattern. The perforated square wheel at 6 o’clock, driven by an additional cloverleaf wheel also mounted in the front, serves as a small seconds indicator. The patented square-wheel mechanism was designed by Michel Vermot, head of Maurice Lacroix’s movement development department, in collaboration with the Haute École du Locle, in Le Locle, Switzerland. Thanks to the specially shaped teeth of the right-angled wheel and its clover-shaped counterpart, developed using a revolutionary process involving photolithography and electroforming, the system transfers power as precisely and reliably as a more traditional system using round gear wheels. And, of course, the constant motion of the unusually shaped gears makes for an eye-catching dial highlight. (Click on photos for larger images.)
The indicators for the hours and power reserve are engraved directly onto the mainplate/dial. The square wheel and cloverleaf wheel both have satin-finished upper parts and polished circumferences and feature rose gold and rhodium plating. The triangular seconds pointer in the center of the square wheel is treated with luminescent coating that glows blue in the dark. The seconds are printed in white on a sandblasted background behind the wheel. A stick-shaped hand indicates the power reserve at 3 o’clock.
The watch’s rose-gold case is 46 mm in diameter, with satin and polished finishes, and has a domed sapphire crystal treated on both sides with nonreflective coating. The screwed caseback also has a large pane of sapphire, through which you can see the manual-wind movement, Caliber ML 156 — developed by Maurice Lacroix in partnership with the Haute École Arc watchmaking school in Le Locle and manufactured and assembled at the company’s atelier — in action. The watch comes on a brown alligator-leather strap that accessorizes nicely with the dial, with a rose-gold standard buckle that matches the case. A limited edition of 88 pieces, this model of the Roue Carrée Seconde retails for $29,000.
Movement: ML 156, manual-wind; 18,000 vph (5 hz); 34 jewels; adjusted in five positions after full winding and after 24 hours; 45-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes indicated by central hands, small seconds indicated by square display wheel at 6 o’clock; power reserve display at 3 o’clock
Case and strap: Rose gold case, 46 mm in diameter, with satin and polished finishing; domed sapphire crystal with nonreflective coating on both sides; screwed caseback with sapphire viewing window; water-resistant to 50 meters; on matte brown crocodile-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and brown over-stitching; 18k rose-gold standard buckle
Dial and hands: Brown dial created on the movement plate, with “grand colimacon” finishing; hour markers and power reserve indicators engraved on the dial/mainplate; visible square wheel powered by cloverleaf wheel to indicate seconds; stamped hours and minutes hands with diamond-cut heads
For more Maurice Lacroix watches, check out our Watch Database.
Click below for a video of the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde…
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