Paneristi, take note: available in a limited set of 300 pieces, the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso is as elegant as it is simple. In true Panerai style, its name is a mouthful, but it tells you everything you need to know about the watch. Let’s break it down and review.
The Radiomir 1940 collection takes its name from Panerai’s original involvement with the Italian Navy. In the 1930s the brand made divers’ watches for navy commandos, using a luminous substance, known as “radiomir,” on the dial. In recent years, the Panerai Radiomir 1940 collection has been defined by elegant watches and minimalist dials; the cases are polished to highlight their metals, and there are none of the Panerai-signature crown protectors found on many of the brand’s other models.
The watch gets the “3 Days” part of its moniker from its power reserve. Ref. PAM00570 (as the new watch is otherwise known) has a 72-hour power reserve, using two barrels to achieve the full three days of energy. Its caliber, P.3001/10, is hand wound, so that means a little more work for the wearer. But it’s worthwhile when you can turn the watch over and watch the wind decrease gradually, thanks to an arc-shaped power-reserve indicator on the back of the skeletonized movement.
Like all of its Radiomir 1940 brethren, the PAM00570 has a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock; like some of its brethren, there’s also a date aperture at 3 o’clock. But the “GMT” in its name is thanks to its other function: an arrow-shaped, second-time-zone hand, mounted underneath the hour and minutes at the center of the dial. wLastly, there’s “Oro Rosso,” or “red gold” in Italian. The PAM00570 has a 47-mm-wide case made of 5nPt rose gold. This alloy has a higher percentage of copper than some rose golds, in addition to a small amount of platinum, which slows the process of oxidization. The bezel has been polished. Within the case, there’s a brown dial with a sunburst finish. The dial itself uses Panerai’s usual two-level construction, with luminous material from the lower level visible through cut-outs in the brown top layer.
The P.3001/10 caliber has been nicely finished, with skeletonized barrels and bridges. The bridges have a brushed finish. The watch has a brown alligator strap with a rose-gold buckle. It is water resistant to 50 meters. The Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso costs $31,800. If you get your hands on one of the 300 pieces in the limited edition, you get to be the one forcing people to say the watch’s name in full.