The name of Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero collection comes from the Latin word manuaria, meaning, “that which is directed by hand,” a reference to the handcraftsmanship in high-end watchmaking. Some of that manuaria is on display in the brand’s elegant Manero MoonPhase watch, which debuted in three new versions at Baselworld 2012 — with a rose-gold bracelet for the existing silver-dial model and two new models with black dials, one with rose-gold bracelet and one with black alligator strap.
The Manero MoonPhase is designed to highlight its user-friendly calendar functions. The day of the week and month are displayed in windows (next to each other at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, respectively) while the date is indicated by a center-mounted pointer and a numerical scale (1-31) that encircles the center of the dial. The moon-phase display, the watch’s signature complication, is located at 6 o’clock and features a striking gold-colored moon disk on a deep blue night-sky background. The movement at the heart of these functions is Carl F. Bucherer’s exclusive automatic Caliber CFB 1966.
The dial’s other elements also enhance its legibility: the wedge-shaped hour indices are made of the same rose gold as the case, which contrasts nicely with both the silver and white versions of the dial. The tapered hours and minutes hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. The leather-strap version has a rose-gold pin buckle and the gold-bracelet version has a rose-gold folding clasp.
At a substantial-but-not-too-large diameter of 38 mm (and slightly less than 11 mm thick), the gold case should feel comfortable on most wrists, and the polished surfaces on the case and lugs should draw admiring attention. The Manero MoonPhase models on an alligator leather strap retail for $12,900; the models with rose-gold bracelets are $27,200. (Click on the watch photos for larger images.)
Movement: Caliber CFB 1966, automatic; diameter = 26.2 mm; height 5.2 mm; 21 jewels; 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; month, date, day of the week, moon-phase indication
Case: 18k rose gold, diameter = 38 mm, height = 10.85 mm, sapphire crystal with nonreflective coating on one side, sapphire exhibition caseback, water-resistant to 30 meters; on Louisiana alligator strap or rose-gold bracelet, pin buckle in 18k rose gold
Dial and hands: black or silvery white dial with wedge-shapes rose gold indices; Super-LumiNova-coated hours and minutes hands
Receive all the news, features and reviews from WatchTime for free! Sign up to our free weekly newsletter and get all the news delivered to your inbox.