Vacheron Constantin calls the new Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755″ a super-complication that is descended from the brand’s 250th anniversary masterpiece, the Tour de l’Ile. The Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” required three years of development and with a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and minute repeater, it is the most complicated model in Vacheron Constantin’s current catalog.

The movement consists of 602 parts fitted into a diameter of 33.3 mm, and it is only 7.9 mm high. The watch, available only in platinum with gray or silver dial, measures 44 mm in diameter. The minute repeater demonstrates the greatest technical innovation of the three complications with a silent, centripetal governor controlling the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs. Vacheron’s development replaces the noisy recoil escapement with its lever that is subject to wear. The new device has two weights shaped so as to act as a brake on the governor’s rotating shaft, thus evening-out the energy released by the repeater’s spring. To achieve this, it uses the opposite centrifugal and centripetal forces. When the governor spins, the centrifugal force pivots one end of the weights outwards so that the other end acts as a brake on the central shaft to bring the rotation and the strike to a steady rate. The spinning governor is visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

Calibre 2755 beats at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations an hour and has a power reserve of about 55 hours. The level of its finish can be appreciated in the chamfered edges of the bridge plates adorned with Côtes de Genève, the circular graining on the baseplate and the rounding-off of the tourbillon bridge. The movement bears the Hallmark of Geneva.

Only a very few Calibre 2755s will be produced each year in the manufacture’s workshops, and they will be priced at $639,000.

Additional technical data appears below the images, which may be enlarged with a click.

TECHNICAL DATA

Reference: Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755
80172/000P-9505 and 80172/000P-9589

Movement: 2755, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin, stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding

Movement thickness: 7.90 mm

Movement diameter: 33.30 mm

Jewels: 40 jewels

Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour

Indications: Minute repeater
Tourbillon
Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Power reserve on the caseback

Power reserve: More than 55 hours

Case: 950 platinum
Diameter: 44 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side Open-worked back secured with screws, sapphire crystal

Water-resistance: None

Dial: Silvered or dark grey opaline
Finely snailed counters with diamond-polished fillets
Black or white painted minute-track

Strap: Dark blue or black, hand-stitched alligator leather

Clasp: 950 platinum folding clasp
Polished half Maltese Cross

Twenty years ago IWC debuted its Grande Complication, and at SIHH 2010, the 657-component movement made its first ever appearance in a Portuguese case. Dubbed the flagship of the Portuguese fleet, the automatic-winding 79091 caliber offers a chronograph that records up to 12 hours, perpetual calendar displaying the day, date, month and the complete year in four digits, moon phase accurate to 1 day in 122 years, minute repeater, and small hacking seconds.

IWC’s original Grande Complication required 7 years of development to make so many complications fit in a wearable wristwatch. Though the movement is highly complex, the dial displays are crystal clear, and the 4 digit year display at 8 o’clock has become a signature visual reference point. The 45mm case is well proportioned, and remarkably for a minute repeater, it offers 3 bar water resistance. In keeping with the spirit of the Portuguese seafarers, the caseback is engraved with a sextant, and the silver dial features an engraved globe with lines of longitude and latitude, positioned in the correct 23.4-degree angle of inclination of the terrestrial axis.

The previous Grande Complication will continue to be built in parallel with the new Portuguese model, which will be limited to 50 numbered examples annually. The Portuguese Grande Complication is priced at $217,000.

Additional information appears below the images, which can be enlarged with a click.

IWC Portuguese Grande Complication

Ref. IW3774

Features

Grande Complication with 657 mechanical components, automatic chronograph movement, perpetual calendar with display of the day, date, month and the complete year in four digits, perpetual moon phase, minute repeater, small hacking seconds, engraving of a sextant on the case back

Movement

Calibre: 79091
Beats: 28,800/h
Jewels: 75
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case

Materials: watch and folding clasp in 18 ct red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap with 18 ct red gold stitching
Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 45mm
Height: 16.5mm

At SIHH Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a modern version of the Master Memovox International, originally created for the brand’s 125th anniversary in 1958 and also known as the Memovox Worldtimer. The alarm disk on this Memovox (“voice of memory”) features different cities and regions. This piece will be produced in two limited editions in 18-carat pink gold and in steel.

These new versions are fitted with the company’s Calibre 956, which is the direct descendant of JLC’s Calibre 815, the first automatic movement with alarm introduced in 1956. This is a rare example of a movement that’s still in production more than 50 years after its creation, though many improvements have been added over the years. In 1959, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 825 added a date aperture at 3 o’clock. In 1970 the Calibre 916 replaced its swinging weight by a 360° winding rotor and increased the balance frequency from 21,600 vph to 28,800 vph, which has become the norm for precision watches. In 1989, the company introduced its first movement featuring an alarm function along with a perpetual calendar: Calibre 919 comprised no fewer than 350 parts, including a bronze gong, which is unique in watchmaking. In 2005, the Master Grand Réveil was fitted with two types of alarm. The wearer could choose between an audible ring, or, when in a meeting, a more discreet vibration. And since 2007, the Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm, powered by Calibre 912, has featured a world time function as well as a digital display of the hour and minute to which the alarm has been set.

The latest model features a large free-sprung balance and a winding rotor on ceramic ball bearings that needs no lubrication or maintenance. Its gear wheels have a new tooth profile that ensures smoother transmission of power. Calibre 956 has a frequency of 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 45 hours. The case, with a solid caseback, measures 40 mm in diameter.

The steel version will be produced in an edition of 750 pieces priced at $11,350. The pink gold model is limited to 250 pieces priced at $22,150. The Master Memovox International should begin arriving in the stores in April.

Additional technical information appears below the images, which may be enlarged with a click.

Master Memovox International: technical characteristics

Movement:
• mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 45-hour power reserve
• 268 parts
• 23 jewels
• 7.45 mm high

Functions:
• hours, minutes, seconds
• date, alarm

Dial:
• black with numerals, hour-markers and transferred city names

Hands:
• rhodium-plated or gold-plated

Case:
• ø 40 mm, thickness: 14 mm
• solid back with new engraved “MASTER CONTROL” logo
• water resistance: 5 atm

Strap:
• alligator leather with folding clasp

References:
• Q1412471, 18-carat pink gold
• Q1418471, steel

At SIHH Officine Panerai presented the P.999, a new hand-wound mechanical movement entirely designed, developed and produced at the Neuchâtel manufacture. The new movement has a 12 ligne or 27.44 mm diameter, making it suitable for Panerai’s smaller timepieces like the Radiomir 42 mm.

Caliber P.999 has 19 jewels, a single barrel providing a 60-hour power reserve and small seconds at 9 o’clock. It is comprised of 154 components and beats at 3 Hz or 21,600 alternations/hour. Equipped with adjusting screws, the balance wheel is protected by an Incabloc anti-shock device. This caliber is available in 2 versions: P.999 has a swan neck regulator and polished edges, and P.999/1 has raquette adjustment and sand-blasted edges, and these movements are individually numbered.

The Radiomir 42mm has a polished steel case, screw-down crown, sapphire display back, and a 1.5 mm thick anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Water resistance is 100 meters. At SIHH Panerai advised us that the European MSRP on the steel Radiomir 42 mm will be 4900 euros, and this model will be limited to 100 pieces. A titanium version priced at 5400 euros is also limited to 100 pieces, and 500 examples will be produced in pink gold, priced at 11,000 euros.

At SIHH last week Cartier launched the new Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon with their new manual winding movement, Caliber 9451 MC, designed and created by Cartier watchmakers. This unusual movement is the product of 5 years of development at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

The Astrotourbillon’s carriage is driven by the third wheel of the gear train. The pinion of the escape wheel rotates around a fixed seconds-wheel (the fourth wheel of the gear train) in order to drive the escapement. The carriage has a special rotational axis, as it is positioned at the center of the movement. This requires a different gear-train design, from the two barrels of the movement through to the display of the minutes and hours. Another feature, responsible for the striking visual effect created by the movement, is that the balance staff and escape-wheel staff are not on the same rotational axis as the carriage. They are located to one side of the carriage, in linear alignment with its rotational axis. The tourbillon carriage is positioned “above” the movement between two dials, rather than being directly integrated into the movement as with classic tourbillons.

This construction is unusual and has both aesthetic and technical consequences. The elongated carriage makes a complete revolution around the entire surface of the dial in one minute. The off-center balance bridge, shaped like an arrow, indicates the seconds. In order to ensure the equilibrium of the carriage, it was necessary to incorporate a platinum counterweight on the opposite side of the carriage, hidden under the central dial. Furthermore, the weight of the carriage had to be limited (0.39 g for the entire carriage, excluding the counterweight) in order to control its inertia during rotation, hence the choice of titanium for its construction.

This new movement is housed in the 47 mm Rotonde de Cartier case, available in white or rose gold, priced as follows:

White gold, Ref. CRW1556204 – $133,000
Rose gold, Ref. CRW1556205 – $124,000

The Astrotourbillon will be available at select Cartier boutiques across the U.S. from June 2010, and Cartier is accepting pre-orders.

Additional technical information appears below the images, which may be enlarged with a click.

Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Watch

Case: 18 carat white or pink gold
Diameter: 47 mm
Crown: circular-grained in 18 carat white or pink gold, set with a sapphire cabochon
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: transparent sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters / 100 feet / 3 bar
Strap: black alligator skin (white gold) or brown alligator skin (pink gold)
Folding clasp: double adjustable, in 18 carat white or pink gold

Calibre 9451 MC Astrotourbillon

Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical with manual winding, Astrotourbillon
Diameter: 16’’’ ¾, (38 mm)
hickness: 9.01 mm
Number of jewels: 23
Number of components: 187
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 48 hours
Individually numbered movement

Audemars Piguet launched a new diver’s watch at SIHH last week. The Royal Oak Offshore Diver measures 42mm x 13.75mm and is powered by AP’s manufacture 3120 automatic movement. The ROO Diver meets or surpasses each of the Swiss watch industry norms (NIHS) for dive watches, including time preselection device, visibility, water resistance, anti-magnetic properties, resistance to shock and thermal variations, and resistance to external forces.

The time preselection device norm (NIHS 92-11 corresponding to ISO 6425) calls for a device that is protected against any unintentional rotation. The ROO Diver has a unidirectional inner bezel that is activated via a click mechanism linked to the crown at 10 o’clock. The wearer must unscrew the crown to turn the bezel.

The Swiss dive watch norms require that the time measured on the inner dial ring must be readable in the dark from a distance of 25 cm, or about 10 inches. The ROO Diver meets this requirement with faceted, luminescent baton hour markers along with faceted and luminescent hour and minute hands. The inner bezel has a minutes scale that highlights 5 minute intervals.

The Swiss norms require that all dive watches must be water tight to 100 meters. The ROO Diver exceeds this standard with 300 meter watertightness. The ROO Diver also meets the standards for antimagmetic, shock and thermal variation resistance, and the size of the buckle has been increased so that the strap can withstand forces up to 200 Newtons.

The ROO Diver is equipped with the Manufacture Audemars Piguet automatic winding caliber 3120 movement. The movement uses a variable-inertia balance with a flat balance-spring oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Adjustment is performed by means of eight inertia-blocks. The cross-through balance bridge is attached on both sides of the mainplate and so provides enhanced shock-resistance. The direct-drive central seconds hand avoids backlash.

Caliber 3120 features a 60 hour power reserve, fast-adjustment date display, and stop or hacking seconds. The movement is hand-assembled in Le Brassus. The bridges are chamfered and polished. The jewel sinks are diamond-polished. The wheels feature chamfered spokes and diamond-polished jewel sinks. Screw rims and slots are chamfered. The hand-crafted decoration includes a mainplate circular-grained on both sides and bridges with Côtes de Genève. The monobloc 22-carat gold oscillating weight bears the Audemars and Piguet family crests and the AP monogram.

Technical specifications appear below the images, which can be enlarged with a click.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Royal Oak Offshore Diver

Reference
15703ST.OO.A002CA.01
Stainless steel case
Water-resistant to 300 meters

Movement
Proprietary Caliber 3120, selfwinding
Total diameter : 26.60 mm
Casing diameter: 11.5 lignes (26 mm)
Thickness: 4.25 mm
40 jewels
278 parts
22-carat gold oscillating weight
Up to 60-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Variable-inertia balance with eight inertia-blocks and flat balance-spring
Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud holder
Three-position winding stem
Finishing: all parts finely decorated; mainplate circular-grained; bridges rhodium-plated, chamfered, snailed and adorned with Côtes de Genève. Diamond-polished jewel sinks; wheels with chamfered spokes and diamond-polished jewel sinks; chamfered screw rims and slots
Oscillating weight engraved with the AP monogram and the Audemars and Piguet family crests

Case
Stainless steel
Black rubber crowns
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 13.75 mm
Back with medallion bearing the legend Royal Oak Offshore
Water-resistant to 300 meters

Dial
Black with exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” motif
Inner rotating ring with diving scale
Applied gray hour-markers with luminescent coating
Faceted white gold hour and minute hands with luminescent coating

Strap
Black rubber with oversize stainless steel pin buckle

Functions
Hours and minutes
Dive-time measurement
Date

During my visit with A. Lange & Söhne at SIHH last week, I had an opportunity to snap some images in and around the booth, including a few of the new timepieces. The big story this year is the brand’s 165th anniversary and the three Homage to F.A. Lange pieces in Lange’s proprietary honey gold. The new Annual Calendar was also very well received.

SIHH guests mingle outside the Lange booth

The booth entrance featured a large Zeitwerk-inspired clock that naturally displayed the current time digitally

Noted watchmaker Philippe Dufour admires a Lange movement at the booth

At SIHH, Lange introduced a black-dial version of the Zeitwerk, known internally as the “Phantom”. To be read at night, the Phantom’s numbers must glow, but charging the luminescent material is a challenge when the numbers are hidden behind the dial most of the time. Lange solved the problem by creating the dial from a “reverse sunglasses” material that allows UV light through, but that stops visible light. The dial material is slightly translucent and up close, the movement can be viewed through it, but from more than about 18 inches away, the dial appears black. In the image below, light reflects off the “sunglasses” portion of the dial, making it appear dark blue.

The Zeitwerk movement viewed through the display back

Lange’s Homage to F.A. Lange set in honey gold features a Lange 1 Tourbillon, a Tourbograph, and an 1815 Moonphase (apologies for the hot spots caused by the lighting in the room).

The new Saxonia Annual Calendar in white and pink gold

At SIHH last week, Cartier introduced a new in-house automatic movement known as 1904-PS MC. It powers the new men’s Calibre de Cartier line. The movement features twin barrels to provide a steady flow of power to the escapement, and the regulation system allows for fine adjustment to increase timekeeping accuracy. A stop-seconds system facilitates synchronization to a reference signal.

Cartier also paid close attention to the winding system. Ceramic ball bearings at the center of the rotor ensure excellent shock resistance and durability. Cartier abandoned reversers in favor of a pawl system to speed winding, and a bi-directional full-size rotor assures maximum winding efficiency. The movement measures 25.6mm in diameter and 4mm thick and it beats at 28.800 vph. The power reserve is 48 hours. The rotor and upper bridges are finished with traditional Côtes de Genève, and the main plate, which is hidden from view, is circular-grained.

The Calibre de Cartier case measures 42mm in diameter and is available in steel, steel and pink gold, and solid pink gold. The curved lugs provide a comfortable fit on the wrist. The steel version comes with black or white dial, the steel and gold model comes with a white dial, and in pink gold you may choose a white or chocolate brown dial. The dial incorporates signature Cartier design codes and is dominated by an oversize XII in slight relief. Everything is clearly legible. The crown features a synthetic spinel cabochon. Both crystals are sapphire, and the case is water-resistant to 30 meters. The alligator strap comes with an double-adjustable folding clasp.

Look for the Calibre de Cartier in stores beginning in April, starting at $6500 in steel. The images below may be enlarged with a click.

At SIHH today Lange unveiled their new automatic winding Saxonia Annual Calendar. Available in white gold and in pink gold, the diameter is a modest 38.5mm, but the design focus was legibility and the watch is quite easy to read. The look is pure Lange and this piece offers much of the visual appeal of its perpetual calendar big brother.

The movement features the famous Sax-O-Mat zero reset function which stops the movement when the crown is pulled out and resets the seconds hand to zero to allow easy syncronization with a reference time signal. The moon phase is accurate to within 1 day in 122 years. As an annual calendar, the date needs to be adjusted just once per year.

Complete technical information appears below the images, which you may enlarge with a click.

The Saxonia Annual Calendar is priced at 27,500 euro in both white gold and pink gold.

Technical Details

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L085.1 SAX-0-MAT, self-winding, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver with integrated three-quarter rotor in 21-carat gold and centrifugal mass in platinum, reversing and reduction gear with four ball bearings; balance cock engraved by hand

No. of movement parts: 476

No. of jewels: 43

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance, Nivarox balance spring, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, whiplash precision index adjuster with patented beat adjustment mechanism

Power reserve: 46 hours when fully wound

Functions: Time indication with hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds and ZERO-RESET function, annual calendar with patented outsize date, day-of-week, month, and moon-phase displays

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, one recessed push piece each to advance the outsize date, day-of-week, month, and moon-phase displays

Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.5 millimeters; height: 9.8 millimeters

Movement dimensions: Diameter: 30.4 millimeters; height: 5.4 millimeters

References: 330.026, 330.032

Case: White gold Pink gold

Dial: Solid silver, argenté Solid silver, argenté

Hands: Blued steel Rhodiumed pink gold; blued steel

Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap and Lange prong buckle in solid white or pink gold