In keeping with this philosophy of luxury and elegance, even the hidden parts of the movements are lavishly embellished. Patek Philippe takes understatement to the nth degree by opting to conceal the entire caliber beneath the case’s opaque back, a decision that will likely divide opinions among aficionados. Dyed-in-the-wool traditionalists will welcome the opaque back and will likewise be pleased that it is pressure-fit to the case, as was the back of the Calatrava Reference 96 from 1932. Only by enlarging the dimensions has Patek Philippe chosen to cater to contemporary tastes — and this, too, is a welcome decision.
A. Lange & Söhne upholds its own tradition, especially in the movement’s architecture and decorations. The old Lange 1815 more strongly recalled Lange’s historical pocket watches than the new Saxonia, but this new model is nonetheless a timeless interpretation of an elegant wristwatch with a genetic makeup that positively shouts “Lange.” On the other hand, the Saxonia isn’t quite as charismatic as the Calatrava, a genuine stylistic icon.
When all the comparisons have been made, the two watches cross the finish line in the horological equivalent of a photo finish. As among wine connoisseurs, it all boils down to a question of taste: red wine or white? Germany or Switzerland?
PATEK PHILIPPE
Pros
+ Beautiful, clean dial
+ Superlative craftsmanship
+ Good rate results
Cons
– No exhibition caseback
– No stop-seconds function
A. LANGE & SOHNE
Pros
+ Classically elegant design
+ Outstandingly high-quality
workmanship
+ Exhibition caseback
Cons
– Less than perfect rate results
SPECS
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe Geneva, Chemin du pont-du-centenaire 141, CH-1228 Plan-les-Ouates, Switzerland
Reference number: 5196R
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Movement: Caliber 215 PS, hand-wound, diameter = 21.9 mm, height = 2.55 mm, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 18 jewels, Kif shock absorption, fine adjustment via Gyromax balance, Geneva Seal, 130 components, 44-hour power reserve
Case: Rose gold, sapphire crystal, pressure-fit back; water-resistant to 2.5 ATM
Strap and clasp: Crocodile-skin strap with rose-gold pronged buckle
Rate results (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up: 0
Dial down: 0
Crown up: –1
Crown down: +3
Crown left: –1
Crown right: 0
Greatest deviation of rate: 4
Average deviation: +0.2
Average amplitude:
flat positions: 305°
hanging positions: 274°
Dimensions: diameter = 37 mm, height = 8 mm; weight = 59 g
Price: $23,600
SPECS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE SAXONIA
Manufacturer: Lange Uhren GmbH, Altenberger Strasse 15, D-01768 Glashütte, Germany
Reference number: 216.026
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, stop-seconds function
Movement: Caliber L941.1, hand-wound, diameter = 25.6 mm, height = 3.2 mm, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 21 jewels, Incabloc shock absorption, swan’s neck fine adjustment mechanism, screw balance, screwed gold settings, hand-engraved balance cock, 164 components, 45-hour power reserve
Case: White gold, sapphire crystals above dial and in back, screwed back; water-resistant to 3 ATM
Strap and clasp: Crocodile-skin strap with white-gold pronged buckle
Rate results (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up: +1
Dial down: 0
Crown up: –3
Crown down: +1
Crown left: +8
Crown right: +2
Greatest deviation of rate: 11
Average deviation: +1.5
Average amplitude:
flat positions: 288°
hanging positions: 257°
Dimensions: diameter = 37 mm, height = 7.7 mm; weight = 66 g
Price: $19,000
SCORES
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): The hand-sewn crocodile-skin strap with glossy lacquer is a good match for the Calatrava wristwatch. Very beautifully polished buckle with a faceted but unfortunately not milled prong. 10
Operation (5): Very smoothly running crown, but no stop-seconds function. 4
Case (10): The case looks very slim, with an appealing juxtaposition of satin-finished and polished surfaces. The back is unfortunately merely pressure-fit and lacks a viewing window. 9
Design (15): As classical as one of Beethoven’s symphonies, this design icon from 1932 simply cannot be improved upon. 15
Legibility (5): Luminous material on the dial would have been obtrusive and unattractive. Daytime legibility is excellent. 4
Wearing comfort (10): All in all, quite pleasant on the wrist. Extreme flatness can be a disadvantage, as evidenced by the crown, which presses somewhat against the back of the hand. 9
Movement (20): The classical bridge architecture is elaborately and meticulously adorned by hand: beveled and polished edges, polished screws, Geneva waves. Geneva Seal and Gyromax balance all stand for quality. 18
Rate results (10): Very good amplitude and only slight differences among the several positions; scarcely any deviation of rate on the wrist. 9
Overall value (15): Plenty of money to pay, but it also buys you plenty: outstanding quality, dream-come-true design, a beautiful movement and the highest prestige. 13
TOTAL: 91 POINTS
SCORES
A. LANGE & SÖHNE SAXONIA
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): The beautiful, hand-sewn crocodile-skin strap with cut edges is cleverly guided through a solid buckle made of white gold. The milled prong and crossbar radiate an aura of solidity. 10
Operation (5): Winding the mainspring, pulling the crown out and setting the hands are all easy tasks. The stop-seconds function facilitates setting the time with to-the-second accuracy. 5
Case (10): Slim white-gold case with beautiful alternation between satin- finished and polished surfaces. Six screws hold in place the white-gold back with its pane of sapphire crystal. 10
Design (15): Lange has succeeded in finding a timelessly elegant design for the dial. Instantly recognizable as a Lange watch. 15
Legibility (5): Very easy to read, except for the absence of luminous material, which wouldn’t have been appropriate with this design, anyway. High contrast between the rhodium-plated gold hands and the black dial. 4
Wearing comfort (10): Small, flat and lightweight, with a small crown that doesn’t come too close to the back of the hand and with sprung crosspieces positioned close to the wrist between the horns to ensure a firm fit. 10
Movement (20): High points include the three-quarters plate made of nickel silver with Glashütte waves, screwed gold settings with blued screws, polished swan’s neck fine adjustment mechanism and hand-engraved balance cock. 18
Rate results (10): Unfortunately, the Saxonia deviated sharply in the “crown left” position. This resulted in a greatest deviation among the several positions of fully 11 seconds, and thus an overall mediocre performance. 7
Overall value (15): The high level of handcraftsmanship and the outstanding overall quality justify its high price. 13
TOTAL: 92 POINTS
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Excellent article filled with many useful details. Having visited both manufactures, with an Advantage Tours group of high grade watch aficionados, I concur with the author regarding the amount of time dedicated to finishing the movements. In my opinion the lack of an exhibition back at Calatrava is a pro rather than a con. Final thought: Every time one sees a comparison between two luxury watches, one of them is a Patek. Coincidence? I think not.
Nick Lerescu
Great compare + you assumed the bold position of granting the photo-finish to Lange.
However, I am curious why you did a two-off comparison and did not include the Piaget equivalent, the Altiplano? Despite it being a micro-rotor automatic, it certainly has a similar price-point and perhaps could have been included.
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