Grading the Retrograde: Longines Master Collection Retrograde

Longines Master Retrograde dial CULongines’s Master Collection Retrograde has an exclusive movement with no less than four retrograde functions. How does it hold up under WatchTime’s exacting scrutiny? Find out in this watch test feature by “Watch Insider” Alexander Linz and photographer Nik Schölzel, presented in WatchTime’s June 2009 issue.

In 2007, Longines commemorated its 175th anniversary with the introduction of its classically styled Master Collection. When the company made the decision to add to this line a complicated watch with multiple retrograde displays, it considered several options for where it would get that watch’s movement. The brand, a member of the Swatch Group, covers the mid-range price niche, bridging the gap between lower-priced Tissot and Hamilton and higher-priced Omega, and its budget for movement-making is accordingly limited. Thus, the simplest option would have been to use an existing base movement from ETA — the movement supplier that is Longines’s sister company in the Swatch Group — and add a module from a specialist such as Dubois Dépraz. However, Longines CEO Walter Van Känel wanted an all-new movement for the Master Collection Retrograde — one that would be exclusive to Longines — and directed the specialists at ETA to create one.

For its part, ETA welcomed the challenge, using as its canvas the Valgranges line of calibers, descendants of the classic Valjoux 7750, which are known for their large size and reliable rate performance. The results were not one but two reliable, user-friendly and, above all, high-performance calibers, each of which uses the traditional cam-and-rack construction. Version A07L21 (designated Caliber L698.2 by Longines) has four retrograde displays; version A07L11 (Longines Caliber L697.2) has three.

Caliber L698.2 has retrograde displays for the date, the day of the week, the time in a second time zone and the continually running seconds hand at 6 o’clock; Caliber L697.2 leaves out the seconds hand and replaces it with a power-reserve display at the same position. The Master Collection Retrograde watch in our test contains Caliber L698.2. (Photos can be enlarged with a click.)

Longines Master Retrograde front

The case is large, 44 mm in diameter, and the dial is easy to read.

Close scrutiny of the movement reveals some unexpected attributes. The first surprise comes when you extract the crown to its middle position to set the time: the hand on the seconds display continues to run, but the hands on the three other retrograde displays abandon their previous positions and move clockwise into a sort of waiting position. A Teflon-coated guide ring ensures that the racks fall onto the cams and thus disengage simultaneously. When they’re in this position, the hour hand can be set in hourly increments without stopping the seconds hand or influencing the position of the minute hand. If you need to reset the minute hand, pull the crown out all the way and turn it. In this position, the seconds hand stays stopped where it was when the crown was fully extracted. There is no return-to-zero mechanism for the seconds hand; the movement’s developers decided not to include one because it would have made the watch significantly more expensive.

Longines Master Retrograde reclining

The day and date are set using the buttons at 2 and 4 o’clock, respectively.

 

 

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About Alexander Linz

Alexander Linz is an Austrian watch journalist, watch collector and blogger (www.watch-insider.com). He belongs to a small group of European journalists who have been covering the Swiss and Japanese watch industry for decades. Alexander writes on a regular base for the Austrian daily newspaper "Die Presse", Austria's leading watch and jewelry trade magazine "Uhren-Juwelen" and the leading watch magazines in Germany "Chronos" and "Uhren Magazin". His interviews and features appeared in many of the world's leading watch forums and are frequently being shared by watch experts and journalists.

Comments

  1. Carl says:

    I recently sold my master collection retrograde becouse the second hand lost accuracy over time. I still believe it is a very beautiful watch and I got a lot of complements. I believe if the second hand rotiated the watch would have worked more to my liking

  2. Bruce Robin says:

    I\'ve owned a Longines Master Collection Retrograde as shown above on the stainless bracelet for a little over two years now and I am quite pleased with it - it has become one of my favorites! A quadruple retrograde at this price point presents an uncommon value and the watch often garners compliments. The accuracy has been more than acceptable and from a practical standpoint I have never perceived a difference between it and even the COSC certified chronometers in my collection. Perhaps my large wrist is particularly accommodating but I have never experienced any discomfort or scratches from the lugs. In fact, it\'s one of the more comfortable watches I own encouraging me to wear it often for all but the most casual occasions. The blued hands are quite handsome befitting the classic look of this fine timepiece and the lack of a luminous dial is only slightly inconvenient as most watches perform no better after an hour in the dark. The Ball and Luminox examples in my collection serve me well for red-eye flights.

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