All Entries in the "Watch to Watch" Category

Zenith Annual Calendar

Zenith’s new Captain Winsor Annual Calendar brings together two notable watchmaking achievements: the elegantly simple annual calendar complication designed by Ludwig Oechslin, curator of the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), and Zenith’s famous 36,000 vph in-house El Primero chronograph.

This piece marks the start of a collaboration between the MIH and the Manufacture Zenith. The movement begins with Zenith’s El Primero automatic chronograph movement, produced by the manufacture in-house for more than 40 years. The El Primero is the only series-produced movement to beat at 36,000 vibrations per hour, meaning the chronograph can time events to the nearest 1/10 of a second. Zenith reserves this automatic caliber for its own timepieces. The 42mm Captain Winsor model is equipped with the automatic El Primero caliber 4054 version with central chronograph seconds, continuous seconds at 9 o’clock and a 60 minute totalizer at 6 o’clock. The movement is decorated with côtes de genève and circular-graining, and visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.

To this caliber Zenith adds Oechslin’s ingenious complication which displays the day of the week, date and month and that requires only one adjustment per year. To ensure excellent readability, this display is provided by three concentric discs. The outer disc shows the date, the middle one the month, and the inner one the day of the week. This mechanism is both simple and complex: for 31-day months, the date disc moves the month disc forward; for 30-day months, the month disc makes the 31 “jump”. The minimalist design of this complication comprises just nine moving parts, whereas most calendars require between 30 and 40.

The Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Chronograph is available in stainless steel on strap priced at a very reasonable $8700, and in rose gold on strap priced at $18,800.

Complete technical information appears below the images, which may be enlarged with a click.

Technical Characteristics

Movement

El Primero 4054, automatic
Calibre: 13¼ “` (diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness: 8.30 mm
Components: 341
Jewels: 29
Frequency: 36,000 Vph – (5 hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours
Finishing: oscillating weight with côtes de genève pattern.

Functions

Central hour and minute hands
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Day and month at 3 o’clock
Date indicator at 6 o’clock
Chronograph:
– 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock
– Central chronograph hand

Case, Dial & Hands

Material: stainless steel or 18-carat rose gold
Case diameter: 42 mm
Dial opening diameter: 35.60 mm
Crystal: box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Case-back: transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 5 ATM
Dial: silver-toned guilloché center / silver-toned circular satin-brushed exterior
Indexes: facetted, rhodiumed and gold-plated
Hands: facetted, rhodiumed and gold-plated

Straps & Buckles

Black or brown alligator strap with protective rubber lining
Rose gold or stainless steel pin buckle

GO Seventies Pano Date

Glashütte Original captures the look and feel of a decade that launched numerous design icons with the Seventies Panorama Date. Offered in steel with three dial choices, the 70s look is coupled with the latest in modern watchmaking know-how to create the ultimate time machine.

The dial, fashioned of German silver, is available in galvanized silver, galvanized ruthenium, or blue. All three versions are shown below. The ruthenium dial offers a sunburst surface, while the silver version is matte. The blue dial features finely graded shading passing from a lighter center to a darker periphery in true 70s style.

A subtle yet important design element is the concave sapphire crystal case back which offers a comfortable fit and an excellent view of the caliber 39-47 automatic movement.

The well-crafted four-link metal bracelet fits the wrist very well by incorporating another modern design feature: a patented fine-adjustment system that assures perfect sizing. The integrated double G logo functions as both the clasp’s button and fine adjustment mechanism activator, which can be adjusted a up to eight millimeters in eight steps. The links are screwed to one another with no room for interplay between them so that they are more stable than links joined by pins. The double security mechanism with two buttons on either side helps prevent accidental opening of the clasp.

The Seventies Panorama Date should arrive at retailers in May/June. The European price is 8150 euros.

The images may be enlarged with a click.

JLC Deep Sea Tribute

In 2008 JLC presented two faithful interpretations of historical diver’s watches, the Memovox Tribute to Polaris 1965 and the Memovox Tribute to Polaris 1968, both of which proved very popular. For 2011, JLC introduces a re-edition of the 1959 Memovox Deep Sea, logically named Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea. Find pricing and wallpaper below.

The Memovox Deep Sea was the first diver’s watch ever made by the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. The original was produced in two versions: one for European sports enthusiasts and the other for American divers. In homage to its rich past, Jaeger-LeCoultre is unveiling a limited-series re-edition of the two 1959 Memovox Deep Sea models. And, as one would expect, the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea also comes in two versions, each bearing the appearance of one of the historical variations.

The Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea faithfully replicates the original model, except in one respect: the stainless steel case has been slightly enlarged from 39.8 to 40.5 mm. The caseback carries the motif appearing on the 1959 watch, featuring a frogman surrounded by bubbles.

The European model features a matte black dial with luminescent hour-markers, while its American counterpart is distinguished by a two-tone black/gray execution surrounded by an external ring comprising a scale with five-minute graduations and simply signed “LeCoultre”.

The two versions offer the same functions: hours, minutes, central seconds and an alarm. A crown at 2 o’clock serves to wind and set the alarm, while another at 4 o’clock winds the movement and sets the time. Both models are driven by Memovox Calibre 956, an automatic movement incorporating JLC’s latest technological developments and which has demonstrated its reliability over the years. This descendant of the first manually-wound Memovox calibre beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 45-hour power reserve.

The Memovox tribute to Deep Sea is issued in two limited series: 959 reproducing the “Jaeger-LeCoultre Classique 1959” intended for the European market; and 359 inspired by the “LeCoultre Spécial Amérique 1959”. The last two digits of each edition echo the birth year of this legendary watch.

And finally, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have chosen to protect the dial of the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea with a Plexiglas watch glass absolutely identical to that which equipped the historical models, a detail that connoisseurs will appreciate.

At press time, JLC advises us that that the USA retail price will be “approximately $11,950″. The recommended price for the European model will be €9,500.

Technical specifications appear below the images, which may be enlarged with a click.

Below, the LeCoultre Spécial Amérique 1959, issued in a series of 359 pieces for the American market.

Below, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Classique 1959, a series of 959 pieces for the European market.

Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea
Replica of the “Jaeger-LeCoultre Classique 1959”

Movement
• mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 956, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 23 jewels
• 7.45 mm high
• 268 parts
• 45-hour power reserve

Functions
• hours, minutes, central seconds and alarm

Dial
• matte black with luminescent hour-markers
• alarm indication by a triangle with a luminescent center

Case
• steel
• 40.5 mm in diameter
• convex plexiglas watch glass
• water resistance: 10 bar

Strap
• black leather with steel pin buckle

Reference (European market model)
• Q2028470, limited series of 959

Type XX Anniversary

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the French Aéronavale, Breguet will release a new 1,000 piece limited edition Type XX chronograph.

The Type XX model was born 50 years ago, when the first 500 pieces were delivered in 1960. Like all Type XXs, the original pieces were “flyback” chronographs, and they and were inscribed on the caseback with the legend “Breguet Marine Nationale Aeronautique Navale.” Original Type XXs are now highly sought after by collectors.

The new 100th anniversary limited edition has some unusual features for a Type XX, including a black-lacquered rotating bezel with raised numerals. This limited edition will be delivered with a special presentation box and limited series certificate. The edition is limited to 1,000 numbered pieces in stainless steel with a 39mm diameter. The bezel is bi-directional, and the case is water resistant to 100 meters. The solid caseback is engraved with the official Naval Aviation centenary emblem. The dial is matte black with luminous hands and numerals. The movement is an automatic winding chronograph with flyback function, Breguet caliber 581, 13 1/4 lignes, 25 jewels, 48 hour power reserve. The strap is hand-sewn calfskin leather. The reference number for this edition is 3803ST/92/3W6.

This limited edition piece is priced at $9200, and it will be available beginning in November.

You may click the images to view larger versions.

Bell & Ross Vintage

Bell & Ross is launching a new collection with two lines: Vintage Original and Vintage Heritage. The collection is an homage to 1940s aviator watches. Legibility is excellent, and the watches have the trademark Bell & Ross look. The collection includes a time and date model (BR 123) and a chronograph (BR 126). Both watches have 41mm round stainless-steel cases.

The BR 123 time and date model puts the small seconds and date at 6. The BR 126 chronograph has central seconds, a 60 second counter at 3 and a 30 minute totalizer at 9. The round date opening is at 4:30. Both watches have domed anti-reflective crystals, 100 meter water resistance, and luminescent hands, numbers and indexes. BR 123 is powered by an ETA 2895, while the chronograph uses an ETA 2894.

The Original and Heritage lines are differentiated by aesthetic treatments. The Original line is available with black or beige dials and uses natural stainless steel color cases and white hands, while the Heritage line has black dials and matte-black PVD cases with beige hands and numbers. The Heritage line’s straps are imprinted with the Bell & Ross “ampersand in a circle” logo.

The pricing for these new models is:

BR 123 Black/Beige: $2,500
BR 123 Heritage: $2,900
BR 126 Chronograph Black/Beige: $3,800
BR 126 Chronograph Heritage: $4,200

Vintage Original BR 123 with black dial. In this image, the strap shows age. The strap that accompanies the watch looks new.

Vintage Original chronograph, also shown on an aged strap.

Vintage Heritage models

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer

Glashütte Original’s Senator Chronometer generated strong buzz among collectors and enthusiasts at this year’s Baselworld, and as of December, 2009, the watch is available at retailers. This is GO’s first timepiece to confirm its timekeeping accuracy with an official chronometer certificate from the observatory in Glashütte, issued under German standard DIN 8319. The DIN standard provides for testing fully assembled watches, while the Swiss COSC test involves uncased movements. Like COSC, the German tests involve timing in different positions and at different temperatures, and the basic timing standard is -4 to +6 seconds.

The Senator Chronometer’s redesigned manual winding manufacture Caliber 58-01 movement incorporates a new stop-seconds reset mechanism, illustrated below. The mechanism makes synchronizing the hour and minute hands automatic. Pulling the crown stops the time display and causes the second hand to jump to 12, where it remains; the minute hand moves simultaneously to the next full minute. When the crown is turned to set the time, the minute hand stops only on the indication of the full minute, assuring the correct relationship between the minutes and seconds displayed.

The 42mm Senator Chronometer is available in rose gold ($26,900) or white gold ($28,000) with a silver dial and a black alligator strap with folding clasp.

H. Moser & Cie Mayu

We’re in an age of sobriety following a multi-year horological binge during which watches generally became much larger, much wilder, and much more expensive. The H. Moser & Cie Mayu is the perfect watch for these times. This watch is about simplicity, elegance, innovation, craftsmanship, and perhaps most of all, intrinsic value. The design approaches perfection. The dimensions – petite by today’s standards – hark back to a day not long ago when a gentleman’s dress watch measured less than 40mm (the Mayu measures 38.8mm). The manual winding in-house movement is regulated by a Straumann double hairspring escapement. The twin springs – produced in-house – “breathe” in opposite directions, offsetting center-of-gravity errors. An 80-hour power reserve is more than adequate, and the owner can view the state of wind via a unique power reserve indicator visible through the display back. This is a true in-house movement in every sense – something few brands can claim.

For fine horology fans, the Moser Mayu is a complete package, and best of all, a white gold model is available at just $12,000. The stylish palladium version shown below is a mere $16,800, and in platinum you will pay only $17,700. If I had said this watch retails for $30,000, I suspect very few eyebrows would have been raised. That it can be had for less than half that price makes it one of the best values in fine watchmaking today.

Breguet Classique 5967

Though it did not appear in Breguet’s press materials, the Classique 5967 was shown as a new model for 2009, and based on my conversations in Basel, this watch was very well received. During our meeting with Breguet, we learned that their in-house guilloché shop has been expanded, and this watch wears the first pattern developed in-house. Called Art Deco Damier, the name refers to a chess board, and it creates a rich, three-dimensional feel.

This thin watch measures 41mm in diameter – a nice size for a simple dress watch. Look through the display back and you will see a lovely, case-filling Frédéric Piguet cal. 506.2 pocket watch movement. The Classique 5967 is available in yellow gold priced at $16,400, and in white gold priced at $17,300. Look for the 5967 at retailers this fall.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500

At Baselworld 2009 TAG Heuer unveiled the Aquaracer 500. The numeric designation reflects guaranteed water resistance to 500 meters. The 43mm watch features an automatic helium release valve and a sapphire crystal and case back in a case that took 4 years to develop. A cyclops lens magnifies the date at 3, and luminescent markers on the numbers and hands improve legibility in low or no light. Steel models feature a steel and rubber bezel. Buckles feature a push-button clasp and diver’s extension. Bracelets offer half-links providing a wider range of adjustment. An ETA automatic caliber 2836-2 ticks below the dial.

Available with black dial on rubber strap, silver dial with steel bracelet or rubber strap, or blue dial with steel bracelet at $2450. For a step up, chose the steel model with a solid 18 karat 5N rose gold bezel, with 18 grams of gold, at $3650. A quartz version is also available, priced at $1950. All models are available now.

Lange 1815

For 2009 Lange’s classic 1815 is enlarged to 40mm and fitted with a new manual winding movement that fills the case. Though updated for modern tastes, the 1815 remains a classic three-hand watch. The 1815′s name reflects the birth year of company founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange. The solid silver dial features Lange’s traditional railway-track minute scale, Arabic numerals, and small seconds at 6 o’clock, reminiscent of Lange pocket watches of days gone by.

The new caliber L051.1 measures 30.6 x 4.6 mm in and consists of 188 parts, many of which are hand-decorated. The movement’s features include a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, a hand-engraved balance cock (of which no two are exactly the same), a whiplash precision index adjuster, 5 screwed gold chatons, and thermally blued screws. The movement runs in 21 jewels at 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour with a 55 hour power reserve.

The new 1815 is available in yellow, white and pink gold, and in a limited edition of 500 pieces in platinum.