On my second day of appointments at the 2013 Baselworld watch fair, I discovered a number of intriguing new timepieces, including a slew of “affordable luxury” pieces from Maurice Lacroix, Chopard’s second-most-complicated watch ever, and Carl F. Bucherer’s first tourbillon.
Maurice Lacroix, now majority-owned, we learned at the show, by Asian conglomerate DKSH, obviously has big plans for growth in the U.S. and elsewhere. The brand showed what seemed like dozens of new watch models across several collections.
The Masterpiece Lune Retrograde (front and back, below) now has an in-house automatic movement with more decorative finishing. One of Maurice Lacroix’s signature pieces, this watch can be had for $8,300.
The most interesting new Masterpiece model, the Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse (on the wrist, below) reminded me a bit of the brand’s unconventional Roue Carrée from a few years ago, with the dial-mounted square wheel. This watch, limited to 125 pieces and costing $14,100, has off-center hours and minutes and a big seconds subdial with a revolving, propeller-like seconds hand that moves around the quadrants of the subdial, which has 60, 15, 30 and 45 indicated a the north, south, east and west positions.
Maurice Lacroix also unveiled quite a few new pieces in its Pontos divers’ watch collection, including a three-hand version ($3,400) which has a new screw-down pusher system to rotate the bezel and is more water-resistant than the original chronograph version; and the Pontos S Extreme (three color variations pictured below), that use a new, patented case material called “PowerLite” (made of aluminum, ceramic, magnesium, titanium, and zirconium) and incorporate the design input of automobile innovator Henrik Fisker.
Chopard sent out advance news and photos of the new Superfast models in its Classic Racing series, which we featured previously on WatchTime.com. At Baselworld, the brand presented its redesigned Mille Miglia watch for 2013 and two highly complicated models in its L.U.C. collection. The L.U.C. Perpetual T (front and back, below) contains a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon, powered by a manual-wound Chopard movement with four barrels for a 216-hour power reserve.
The other L.U.C. über-watch is the L.U.C. Engine One H, which is designed to resemble an automobile’s engine block. Rather than a conventional dial, the watch, which has a tourbillon movement and a titanium case, has its hour and minute displays and tourbillon cage mounted on the horizontally oriented (that’s the “H”) mainplate.
Carl F. Bucherer celebrates its 125th anniversary this year and it marks the milestone in grand horological fashion, with its first tourbillon timepiece, a watch several years in the planning stages. Limited to 188 pieces and priced just below the six-figure mark at $91,000, the CFB Tourbillon (front and back, below) is in a 41-mm rose-gold case, and the dial arrangement places the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, a second time zone subdial at 12 o’clock, and an arc-shaped power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock.
More Baselworld news to come in the following days, both on WatchTime.com and our sister blog, Watch-Insider.com.