The proprietary movement responsible for this game of horological hide-and-seek is Hermès Caliber 1925, here modified with an exclusive, patented mechanism that creates an interaction between the rack, pinion, and gear trains to stimulate the hour cam into pointing to the correct hour on demand. The dual-time indication is driven directly by the base caliber, an automatic movement with 28 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vph, and a 45-hour power reserve. Caliber H1925 also boasts a high level of decoration, including circular graining and snailing on the mainplate, satin-brushing on the bridges, and an Hermes “H” logo on the rotor.
Hermes Caliber H1925, front, with hour “unmasked” (above) and back (below)
The Hermès Dressage L’Heure Masquée has the distinctive, cushion-shaped Dressage case, measuring 40.5 x 38.4 mm and available in either steel or 5N rose gold. The watch has glare-proof sapphire crystals in the front and back and comes on a brown alligator strap with a folding clasp in matching steel or gold. The silvered opaline dial has a vertical, central guilloché motif and either 4N-gilded (in the rose-gold version) or black-gold-stamped Arabic numerals. The hands (in rose gold or black gold) have Super-LumiNova in their center. The steel model of the Dressage L’Heure Masquee is limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at $20,750; the rose-gold version is limited to 500 pieces and priced at $43,750.